Kansai Travel

Kyoto Prefecture

Kyoto was the capital of Japan for over a thousand years, until the early seventeenth century. With such an enduring position at the heart of Japan’s government, spiritual, and cultural development, Kyoto retains a rich cultural legacy that can be found throughout the prefecture. The area is not entirely urban. The modern capital sits in a basin, encircled on three sides by mountains, but once beyond the mountains and outside the city limits, the prefecture takes on a more rural feel. You need not travel far outside of Kyoto to find yourself in nature. Given Kyoto’s rich history, the city is home to several significant sites, National Treasures, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and Japanese patrimony. Entire books can be written about what the city has to offer, and many have been written. Here we describe the sites that visitors most ask us about, and which offer magnificent insights into the city and Japan overall but we can only cover a fraction of what the city has to offer and there are many more locations yet to explore!

While Kyoto station lies in the middle of the city of Kyoto, it lies at the southern end of the main central district of Kyoto. The station remains a hub of the city, servicing both commuters and visitors alike. Many shopping malls and department stores lie near the station – adjoining it, below it, and radiating out from it – and Kyoto’s branch of Isetan is directly connected to the station. There are restaurants both within the station and the shopping precincts, ranging from branches of well-respected Kyoto dining institutions to the ‘ramen koji’ or alley of ramen shops representing different styles of ramen from around Japan. The architecture of the station contrasts with Kyoto’s reputation for being a historical and traditional city, with its sweeping modern and innovative style.

Slightly North of Kyoto station, just a short walk away, are two temples that are part of the Jodo Shin sect of Buddhism – Higashi Hongan-ji and Nishi Hongan-ji. The abbots of the Hongan-ji temples did not limit themselves to the spiritual world and were a political force as well. Higashi Hongan-ji, a Buddhist Temple established in 1602 that is Kyoto’s largest wooden building. The buildings are more recent, having been destroyed by fires at various points during its history. The Shin sect of Buddhism was founded by Shinran, and his mausoleum, which has been moved many times since his death in the 1200s, is now located here. Nishi Hongan-ji, built in 1591 with the support of Tokugawa Ieyasu, lies just a few streets to the West and has some older buildings dating as far back as the 17th century, and a number of the structures in the temple precincts are National Treasures. The Temple is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Further to the East is Shoseien, a traditional garden, and residence affiliated with Higashi Hongan-ji.

West of Nishi Honganji temple are some historic buildings and structures that were once part of Kyoto’s old pleasure and entertainment district. The Shimabara gate used to mark the entrance to a district of inns, teahouses, and drinking establishments of yore. Later as more tea houses opened up, geisha houses opened to entertain visitors, making Shimabara the oldest of the city’s Geisha districts. Today there are no current active geisha houses in the area, but the area remains associated with tayu, the highest level of geisha, associated with the Wachigaiya teahouse and okiya. The second of the two remaining teahouses in the area, Sumiya, has seasonally limited visiting hours. It is architecturally significant as it is the only ageya from the Edo period remaining in Kyoto and is the largest machiya in the city. Ageya were banqueting halls where large parties could be entertained. Sumiya was favored by the Shinsengumi and the current building bears the scars of this association. Wachigaya is still used by geisha from other districts in Kyoto and tayu to entertain and is not open to the public. Both buildings have rather plain exteriors, which conceal more artistic and well-appointed rooms inside.

For more secular entertainment near Kyoto station, visitors exiting Kyoto station will find Kyoto Tower hard to miss as it sits opposite the north side of the station. While the tower is a bit of a blot on the landscape of the city, it is a handy visual guide to help orient yourself in the downtown area. The tower provides views over the city and the recently redeveloped Kyoto Sando floors of the building below the tower contain a number of restaurants, souvenir shops, and experience spaces where you can try your hand at cooking and craft-making classes. To the west of the station is the compact Kyoto Aquarium, which features exhibits illustrating the ecosystem and fish of Kyoto’s rivers. Probably the highlight of the attractions in this area is the Kyoto Railway Museum, which features early trains right through to the sleek shinkansen of today, and hands-on exhibits that are great for families.

Heading East from Kyoto Station will also bring you to some of the interesting sights in southern Higashiyama. The Kyoto National Museum is along Shichijo street and has both a permanent collection and temporary exhibits. Those with an interest in folk art may wish to visit the home of Kawai Kanjiro, a renowned ceramic artist and supporter of the mingei craft movement in Japan. The house still has his traditional stepped ‘noborigama’ kiln. On exhibit are his works of art and mementos from his life.

The area also is home to some interesting sacred sites. Across the street from the Kyoto National Museum is the understated but powerful Sanjusangendo Temple. Inside this Tendai temple are 1001 thousand-armed statues of Kannon that shimmer delicately in the low light. The temple itself was founded in 1164 by Taira no Kiyomori, and the main building of the temple dates back to the 1200s. Another interesting site behind the Kyoto National Museum is the Toyokuni shrine, dedicated to Toyotomi Hideyoshi. When his rival Tokugawa Ieyasu rose to power, he ordered the shrine to be closed, and so it was for over 200 years and was only saved from destruction by the pleading of Nene, Toyotomi’s wife.

The Higashiyama area stretches along the Eastern mountains of Kyoto stretching across the length of the city. Most visitors to Kyoto spend a fair amount of time wandering through the historic and beautiful townscapes of southern Higashiyama. Extending mostly from Gojo Dori to Sanjo Dori, this area contains many of the beautiful streets and back lanes that people think of when they think of Kyoto.

Arguably one of the most famous temples in Higashiyama is Kiyomizu-Dera or Kiyomizu Temple. This UNESCO World Heritage Site temple sits perched above the city of Kyoto on the side of Mt. Otowa and commands impressive views over the city. The temple itself is built on a grid-like Zelkova wood platform, not unlike stilts or heavy-duty scaffolding. Given its positioning, the only way to reach the temple is to walk up and there are two main pathways you can take to reach the temple. The ascent up Gojozaka will take you past several small shops, establishments offering snacks, souvenirs, and crafts. Another route – Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka, heads towards Gion and the Nene-no-michi and Ishibei-koji, some of Kyoto’s most beautifully preserved streets. Here, the roads are lined with traditional wooden machiya buildings, temples, and pagodas, which are a delight for the eye and a photographer’s paradise. Visitors will often approach on one route, and descend another.

Kiyomizu-dera was established in the year 778 after the monk Kenshin followed a dream which led him to the clear waters coming from the mountain. These give the temple its name, which means ‘Pure Water’. Here he built a temple dedicated to merciful Kannon. Today you may drink from these same waters. There are three streams of water, each of which is said to bestow different gifts. One bestows long life, one love, and one success. You must pick one – drinking from all three fountains would be greedy and may anger the gods! If you need more help with your love life, the Jisshu shrine that sits behind the main hall of the temple offers you an opportunity to seek the assistance of the spirits.

While Kiyomizu-dera is the best-known of the temples in Kyoto, by continuing to walk along Nene-no-michi in the Higashiyama district, you will encounter some lesser-visited but no less important temples, some of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites. Kodai-ji, a Rinzai-zen temple, is a gem and well worth a visit. The temple was built by Nene, the wife of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who became its priestess following the death of her husband. The construction of the temple was funded by Tokugawa Ieyasu, and his largesse resulted in beautiful buildings, which include tea houses associated with tea master Sen no Rikyu, and a moon-viewing pavilion, as well as a mausoleum for Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Nene. The temple was established in 1606 and is well known for its gardens, designed by respected designer Kobori Enshu. The buildings are ornately decorated inside as well. In Spring and Autumn, the grounds of the temple are illuminated, making for a different means to view the temple. Across the Nene-no-michi lies Entoku-in, a sub-temple of Kodai-ji, which is small but beautiful, particularly during spring and autumn where its gardens offer seasonal views.

Continuing northward in Higashiyama eventually brings you to Yasaka shrine, a shrine that is 1350 years old, predating the founding of the city, yet remaining popular for visitors and residents today. Many of the current buildings date to the Edo period. Yasaka shrine lies at the far eastern end of Shijo-dori, and it is the home of the Gion Matsuri held in Kyoto since 869. The shrine is alternately known as the Gion Shrine. The shrine has a history of being a place of prayer for protection against plague, and indeed the Gion Matsuri is a festival originated to seek deliverance of the city from a plague. There are several smaller shrines on the grounds in the precincts where one can also entreat the kami for a successful marriage, for beauty, or success in business, or even to the wild soul of Susanoo-no-mikoto to assist you. In addition to the Gion Matsuri, the shrine has a full year of festivals, many often attended by maiko and geiko from the nearby Gion districts.

Across Higashiyama dori from Yasaka shrine and the historic sights of southern Higashiyama is the Gion district, which stretches broadly from Kennin-ji Temple in the south to the Shimbashi area in the north, east of the Kamo river. The Gion district is Kyoto’s entertainment district. In the southern part of Gion, along Hanami-koji, are traditional machiya housing exclusive teahouses and restaurants where geisha and their apprentices entertain, and which are only open to customers known to them and visitors referred by them. In the side streets fanning out from the district, the okiya where they live can also be found. Sadly, the past behaviour of tourists has led to the implementation of restrictions in the area to protect the geiko and maiko, as geisha and their apprentices are known in Kyoto. It is now forbidden to photograph along some of the smaller lanes off of Hanami-koji, and rules for correct behaviour are posted along Hanami-koji. The area is still beautiful to walk, particularly at dusk as the neighbourhood comes alive. Kennin-ji temple, at the southern end of Hanami-koji, is a head temple of Rinzai Zen and was first founded by monk Eisai in the early 1200s, making it one of the oldest Zen temples. This temple precinct provides an oasis of calm in the vibrancy of Gion.

The area of Northern Gion, in the Shimbashi-dori area, is also beautiful and atmospheric, with the gently flowing shallow waters of the Shirakawa River, small shrine, and machiya. The Tatsumi bridge is also such a beautiful and atmospheric spot that it has become popular with bridal photographers. The canal is lined by a number of exclusive restaurants. Following a section of traditional buildings, the street opens out into a more modern and conventional district of bars and nightlife establishments.

Returning to Higashiyama and the area east of Higashiyama-dori, just north of Yasaka shrine, is Chion-in. The temple’s entrance is marked by the massively impressive Sanmon gate. Chion-in is the head Jodo, or Pure Land Buddhist temple in Japan. Founded by Honen, the temple’s gate is Japan’s largest, and its bell is Japan’s largest. Setting the superlatives aside, the Jodo sect sees salvation as something that is possible for all. The buildings of the temple are worth a visit. The Miedo hall is dedicated to Honen, founder of Jodo Buddhism, and the Amidado Hall is dedicated to the Amida Buddha, the lynchpin figure of the Jodo sect and the means for reaching salvation. You may wish to seek out the 7 mysteries that can be found at the temple.

Northern Higashiyama also contains a number of Kyoto’s best-loved sites and locations of interest. North of Chion-in is the Okazaki district. The area is known for being home to a number of the city’s notable museums, Heian Jingu, the City Zoo, and the Murin-an Garden.

The approach to Heian Jingu, a road that travels under a large vermillion torii gate, is the site of the primary museums in the area. Around these are the waterways of the Lake Biwa Canal, which was a prime commercial waterway between Kyoto and Lake Biwa; The National Museum of Modern Art, or MoMAK, features a modest rotating permanent collection of Japanese and international works and also hosts a number of visiting exhibitions. Its Japanese works do include Kansai and Kyoto artists. Across the street is the Kyoto City Kyocera Museum of Art. The museum reopened in 2020 after an extensive and much-awaited renovation. The Museum houses the city’s collection of art, and while it does have a strong focus on Japanese artists overall, it is known for hosting touring international exhibitions, and for also being a focal point for Kyoto’s artists with its competitions and local art prizes. In the nearby Miyako Messe Conference Hall, the Kyoto Museum of Crafts and Design, or Fureaikan, offers an overview of the many traditional crafts pursued in the city from past to present with local pride. The museum often has local craftspeople allowing visitors an opportunity to see them at work and engaged in their craft.

At the end of the promenade, is Heian Jingu or Heian Shrine. The shrine commemorates the Heian period of the city, and the city’s first and last Emperors, but was built in the late 1800s to celebrate the city’s 1100th birthday. The shrine sits around a spacious courtyard. Behind, a beautiful and extensive series of four landscape gardens provide a popular place to view both cherry blossoms and autumn foliage. The shrine’s building is a slightly reduced scale model of the ancient administrative buildings of the Emperors from the city’s Heian era history. This is somewhat unique for a shrine as it does not have a foundation in more usual sacred architecture, with the exception of its vermilion colour. The shrine was a way for the city to celebrate its pride once the capital was moved to Tokyo in the 1800’s. The Jidai Matsuri, one of Kyoto’s famed festivals which features a parade of people in historical dress, takes place here.

A number of important sites, as well as family entertainments, can be found East of the Okazaki district. On the south side of the Canal, to the east of the museums, is Murin-an garden, a small garden with an interesting history. This small, often missed garden is the villa garden of Yamagata Aritomo, a statesman of note in the Meiji and Taisho eras. The buildings and grounds are a reflection of the time, with a mix of Japanese and Western influences.

Continuing further east, heading for the mountains, brings you to Nanzen-ji, one of Japan’s top Zen temples. It is the head temple for Rinzai Zen Buddhism. Your arrival is met by the impressive Sanmon gate, built by the Tokugawa clan. It is possible to climb up to the second level of the gate to be able to look out over the full temple grounds The temple precinct is very large, with a number of sub-temples and associated temples, each of which has its admission fees and is worth a visit. In addition to being a significant Zen temple, Nanzen-ji is famed for its Hojo Garden, in the building that was once the head priest’s residence. This dry stone garden was designed by the eminent garden designer, Kobori Enshu. The temple was founded in 1291 and was originally the residence of Emperor Kameyama. Somewhat incongruously, you’ll also find a brick aqueduct that is a beloved location for photographers. The aqueduct still has a role to play in bringing water to Kyoto from Lake Biwa.

The Philosopher’s Pathway or Tetsugaku-no-michi stretches from Nanzenji. This pathway offers a lovely 30-minute walk through a quiet residential neighbourhood and along a quiet canal. The canal is lined by cherry trees, making it very popular in spring, and in autumn maples provide brilliant foliage, but the walk is attractive and pleasant year-round. On the mountainside of the walk, you pass several smaller temples that many visitors miss, such as Eikan-do, and Honen-in. The pathway takes its name from one of Japan’s greatest philosophers, Kyoto University Professor Nishida Kitano, who used to walk this route daily. The pathway ends at Ginkaku-ji, the Silver Pavilion, known formally as Jisho-ji. This temple does not have its planned sliver leaf coating but does offer beautiful gardens and grounds that make use of the hillside above the temple. Within the garden is a stone mound representing Mount Fuji. The temple was built in 1482 and was once the retirement villa of Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa. Ginkaku-ji became a center of Higashiyama culture, which went on to influence the entire nation with gardens, architecture, Noh theatre, the tea ceremony, ikebana, garden design, and poetry. The temple is very popular and a visit right after its opening or just before its closure will help you to beat the crowds and still enjoy this beautiful location.

Turning to the central area of the city, here you will also find several of Kyoto’s significant sites, as well as the business and commercial hubs of Kyoto. This central core is bordered to the south by Gojo dori and to the north by Imadegawa dori, and from the Kamo River in the East to the Nishioji dori in the west. At Gojo, the Kiyamachi dori, leading along the Takase river from Gojo north to Sanjoy and beyond, is lined with restaurants catering to all types of cuisine. From Shijo, visitors may want to travel one street east to delve into the Pontocho district – known for its nightlife, for being home to one of Kyoto’s five main communities of Geisha, and for dining – from casual for formal.

The central shopping areas, where visitors will find department stores such as Takashimaya, Daimaru, and Tokyu Hands, souvenir shops, and many dining options, cluster in the areas between Shijo dori and Sanjo dori, bordered to the East by the Kamo river, and to the West by Karasuma street. The Mina, Opa, and Bal complexes contain several stores within. Here, the sidewalks are covered, and some streets have been covered to create a network of all-weather shopping arcades offering everything both locals and visitors might need. Teramachi dori and Shinkyogoku dori stretch from Shijo to Sanjo and also offer movie cinemas, restaurants, and hotels. Behind the shopping, streets are many temples hidden away in causeways beyond. The city’s famous Nishiki market, a food lover’s paradise, extends west from Teramachi dori for 400 meters of the best delicacies that Kyoto has to offer. This area also is a transportation hub for the city, where bus connections can be made in all directions. The Hankyu rail terminal can be found at the corner of Shijo and Kawaramachi dori.

Just north of Sanjo dori and a few streets west of Karasuma, the Museum of Kyoto provides insights into the history of the city. Following Karasuma dori north just a bit beyond Oike dori, manga fans will find the Kyoto International Manga Museum. The museum has exhibits on manga and a large collection of titles that are eagerly read by visitors. There are some hands-on areas for children and there are demonstrations of kamishibai, a form of storytelling with pictures that had its origins in monk’s morality tales, but which in the 20th century became a popular form of street entertainment.

In the downtown core of the city, we also see the vestiges of the power structures in the city. Nijo Castle, which looks more palatial than defensive, was the power center for Japan’s shoguns, who rose to power in the Edo period. The castle is built in the Momoyama style and was built by Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first of Japan’s shoguns. The beautiful interiors of the Ninomaru palace including screen paintings by well-known artists of the time, and gold leaf decoration, rivaled the refinement of Imperial Palaces, The placement of the castle, so close to the Imperial Palace, was thought to have been a deliberate choice to emphasize the growing power of the Shogun relative to the Imperial Court, as much as it was for the Shoguns to be close to the court they were protecting. The gardens of this UNESCO World Heritage Site are worthy of time and a stroll to appreciate their beauty. The nightingale floors, that ‘sing’ to alert intruders, are a unique feature of the Ninomaru. The Honmaru building was destroyed by fire in the 1700s but its stone foundations remain and give an indication of how imposing the original building must have been.

North and East of Nijo Castle lies the Kyoto Imperial Palace. It was from here that Japan’s Emperors ruled until the capital of Japan was moved to Tokyo in 1868. It is possible to tour the grounds of the castle and view the buildings from the outside, but entry into the buildings is not allowed. The Seiryo-den and Kogosho are reminiscent of the past and are built in historic style but the current palace buildings date from 1855, rather newer than the long history of the imperial rule would imply. Numerous fires took their toll over the years. The Shishiden building was where Emperors were once installed. The Kyoto Imperial Palace is protected by high stout walls. The Sento Palace, just to the south and east of the main palace buildings but within the same large complex, was once the home of former Emperors. While the palace itself was destroyed by fire, its pleasant gardens remain.
The park surrounding the palace is vast and pleasant and is a playground for Kyotoites. The park is particularly popular during the cherry blossom and autumn seasons. These grounds once contained the residences of members of the Imperial Court, but these were destroyed when the capital was moved to Tokyo. T

To the west of the Imperial Palace, lie some sites that may be interesting for visitors with a passion for pottery or traditional Kyoto textiles. The Raku Museum is a small museum containing the simple tea ceremony pottery style handed down through 15 generations in the Raku family. The simple pottery style had its roots in Ming dynasty pottery from Henan, but then emerged into a personal style that had a simplicity and wabi-sabi style in the tradition of tea master Sen no Rikyu, and the pottery style bears a simple elegance suitable for tea ceremonies with their celebration for the irregular but well-formed tea bowls. This pottery tradition has been passed along through 450 years and Raku ware is still highly regarded today.

Also to the West of the Kyoto Imperial Palace is the Nishijin textile-making area. The Nishijin style of woven brocade is a Kyoto specialty. The Orinasu-kan provides some great insights into the production of this style of textile in a thoughtful way. Edo period Noh theater costumes are currently being restored at Orinasu-kan, and are on display, as are many other kimonos. A more commercial presentation of this style can be found in the Nishijin Textile Center.

Aside from a select few sites, the area of Kyoto North of the Imperial Palace is often missed by visitors. The area contains some hidden gems that provide insights into the history of the city and its character. The best-known sites to visitors are the cluster of Zen temples located in the Northwest of the city – Kinkaku-ji, the golden pavilion with a gold leaf exterior that doesn’t fail to make an impression, Ryoan-ji, one of the preeminent Zen temples in Kyoto famed for its dry-stone garden. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Kinkaku-ji, whose formal name is Rokuon-ji was originally the retirement villa of Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (grandfather of Ashikaga Yoshimasa who was inspired by the building to create Ginkaku-ji). Just as Ginkaku-ji became the center of Higashiyama culture, Kinkaku-ji had been the center of Kitayama culture. The Emperor entertained delegates from Ming dynasty China here, and a number of cultural traditions made their way from Ming dynasty China through this entry point. After his death in 1408, and per his wishes, the residence was turned into a Rinzai Zen temple. It is so famous for the upper two floors of the building, covered in gold leaf, that it is known more commonly as the Golden Pavilion. The current building does not date to the original founding of the temple as it had perished in fire twice before -most recently in the 1950s. The interior of the building is closed to the public but contains statues of Buddha and Yoshimitsu. The grounds of the temple climb the hillside behind the temple to the Sekkatei Teahouse which was built in the Edo era. Kinkaku-ji is one of the iconic sites of Kyoto and is popular year-round.

Nearby Ryoan-ji began its life as a villa for the powerful Fujiwara family and was converted to a temple in 1450 when the abbot of Myoshin-ji, Giten Gensho, undertook the transformation. The temple’s Kyoyochi Pond was popular with nobles, as well as Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The garden was originally thought to have been laid out in the Muroyama period from the 1400s. The garden has 15 stones placed within the garden, each with a different shape. Their meaning and significance have been hotly contested over the years, and there are a number of competing theories. The designer of the garden is also unknown. A name, which can only be partially made out, is carved on the back of one of the stones, but the association of this name with the garden remains unresolved. What is known is that it is not possible to view all 15 stones at once. No matter what vantage point you view the garden from, at least one remains impossible to see.

In the area where the Kamo river and the Takano river forks in Northern Kyoto, there are two significant shrines, which pre-date the founding of the city. Kamigamo Shrine, whose formal name is Kamo-wake-ikazuchi shrine, is the first of the two Kamo shrines. Worship has taken place at this location since prehistoric times and even before the purported founding date, the shrine was associated with one of Kyoto’s most significant festivals, the Aoi Festival, which began in 544, and was associated with mountain worship from 678, but as the shrine is the protector of the city, it is often also said to have been founded at the same time of the ancient capital of Heian-kyo, or 794. Here thunder god Wakeikazuchi is enshrined.

Shimogamo Shrine, formally known as Kamo-mioya shrine, is located just north of the fork in the river. The shrine is located in the Tadasu no Mori, the forest of truth, 3.5 km south of Kamigamo shrine. Kamotaketsunomi-no-mikoto, the protector spirit of Kyoto, is enshrined here. Archaeological finds from the Yayoi period in the Tadasu no mori show that worship has taken place here for 2000 years, even though the first shrine buildings only appeared in 7th century. Shimogamo shrine is also associated with the Aoi Festival, and the festival procession travels between these two shrines. Both Kamigamo and Shimogamo shrine are UNESCO World Heritage sites, and they offer some interesting insights into the city and the believe systems of Japan.

Kitano Tenmangu shrine is another of the city’s most famous shrines. Built in the year 947, it is a popular stop for students seeking success with their exams. Kitano Tenmangu enshrines the revered Heian era scholar, Sugawara no Michizane, and those seeking to succeed in exams or gain entrance to their preferred university often come here to ask for some spiritual support. During his lifetime, the scholar was exiled to Kyushu and to ease his spirit and put an end to disasters in his native Kyoto, he was enshrined as Tenjin, the kami or spirit of education, and it is now the head shrine of 12,000 of Tenjin worship sites. Tenjin is associated with the ox, and you’ll see sculptures of ox around the expansive shrine precincts, which students may rub for luck and the gift of knowledge. The shrine is also famous for its plum blossoms, which herald the spring season, and have a festival welcoming their arrival. Hundreds of maple trees in the shrine precincts make it a popular place in the autumn foliage season. The shrine’s monthly flea market is popular with locals and visitors year round. On the doorstep of the shrine is the Kamishichiken district, Kyoto’s oldest hanamachi, or geisha district.

With Kyoto’s history as a political and spiritual center of Japan, it is not surprising that there are also a number of significant temple complexes in the city. Daitoku-ji temple is the head temple of the Rinzai Zen sect of Buddhism. The temple was established in 1319 by Shuho Myocho, and is also strongly associated with the father of the tea ceremony, Sen no Rikyu, a monk who lived and died here. Daitoku-ji is a large complex of a number of sub temples and towers and gates. Many of these remain closed to the public on a day to day basis, but during certain times of the year, special admission is granted to allow visitors to view the beautiful gardens and buildings within. Over the history of the temple has been embroiled in political conflict, was burned down in the Onin Wars in the 15th century, and then gained political support from the 16th century, allowing the temple to grow in influence and importance.

Within the Rinzai Zen sect of Buddhism is the Myoshin-ji strand, whose main temple is the Myoshin-ji temple complex in Kyoto, founded in 1337. This vast temple area consists of a number of smaller sub-temples, most of which are closed to the public. It is possible to visit a select few buildings for some insights into this temple. The grounds of Myoshin-ji were once and Imperial villa of Emperor Hanazono, who converted them to a temple. He then gifted the temple on his death to Kanzan Egen, the first abbot of Myoshin-ji to grow the complex. As with Daitoku-ji, the complex was destroyed in the Onin wars and was subsequently rebuilt. It is worth taking the tour in Japanese to see the Unryuzu dragon painting on the ceiling of the Hatto, or lecture hall, painted by Edo painter Kano Tan’yu. Taizo-in, with its beautiful gardens, and Keishun-in are two sub-temples in the complex that regularly welcome visitors.

Ninna-ji, located near Kinkaku-ji and Ryoan-ji, is also as UNESCO World Heritage recognized temple. The temple is the head temple for the Omura sect of Shingon Buddhism. Founded in 888 by Emperor Uda, who became the temple’s first abbot, it had long been associated with the Imperial family and had started its history as the Monsekiji, a residence for members of the imperial family who left the political world to enter religious life. Uda is said to have been a direct student of Kobo Daishi and there are artifacts relating to Kobo Daishi in the temple’s treasure house museum. The temple is popular during cherry blossom season for its mix of Somei Yoshino cherry trees, weeping cherry trees, and the later-blooming Omura cherry trees. The temple was also destroyed in the Onin wars and was later rebuilt. Outside the cherry blossom season, the temple complex received far fewer visitors and offers a tranquil area for strolling and contemplation.

Outside of Kyoto, but an easy jaunt from the city, are Kurama and Kibune. Each of these valley towns can be visited separately, but there is a hiking trail between the two locations, making it possible to visit both on a lovely walk of about 2-3 hours. Traditionally walkers begin at Kurama shrine, before walking up over the mountain pass and into the land of the tengu, spirits depicted with long noses, who guard over the mountain. It is said that the area between Kurama and Kibune are where the samurai Minamoto Yoshitsune was trained by tengu to be a skilled swordsman. Kurama is the birthplace of reiki,a method of energy healing, and is also well known for its onsen. Following the walk, you arrive at Kifune shrine, dedicated to the kami of water. In the summertime, Kibune offers the possibility of dining on platforms set over the river, kawadoko, which are thought to offer a cooling sensation in the summer heat. For those with an interest in Japan’s ‘power spots’, points along this route are thought to be amongst them.

The Sagano/Arashiyama district in Western Kyoto city has the feel of its position at the edge of the city limits. On crossing the landmark Togetsukyo bridge and heading toward the Arashiyama mountains, one enters the Sagano area. There has been a bridge on this site since the Heian period, and it leads visitors north to the many sights of the area. While it is not the only stand of bamboo in Kyoto, the bamboo grove here is probably the city’s most famous. The towering green shoots attract visitors year-round.

The bamboo grove abuts Tenryu-ji Temple – one of Kyoto’s preeminent Zen temples – also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tenryu-ji’s gardens are well renowned, as is its art. There are several other unique temples in Arashiyama. Daikaku-ji was once an Imperial villa and became a Shingon Buddhist temple in 876. Today it remains a centre for the study of the Heart Sutra and is the headquarters of Saga ikebana. Gio-ji is known for its moss-covered grounds, making it an alternative moss garden to Saijo-ji. Adashino Nenbutsu-ji gathers together 8000 grave markers of those who made the pilgrimage to Mt. Atago and never survived. The graves are gathered here and tended by the priests. Nisonin temple was once a syncretic temple representing many sects of Buddhism, though now it is Tendai. It is known for its two Buddhist statues and for being the final resting place of former Emperors and members of the imperial court. A more recent addition to Arashiyama is the modern Otagi Nenbutsu-ji, which includes many charming statues of the temple’s supporters.

For a more secular experience of the area, Okochi Sanso, the former villa of a historic Japanese movie star, offers beautiful strolling gardens. The Toriinomoto area of Arashiyama contains preserved streets, many of which have been turned into small boutiques selling local handicrafts.

South of the Sagano area, in southwestern Kyoto, are several lesser-explored sites. Immediately south of Sagano is Kegon-ji Temple, also called the Suzumushi or cricket temple. Here crickets chirp throughout the year. Further south is Saiho-ji, a temple well known for its moss gardens. It is so well known for its blanket of moss that the temple is also known as Koke-dera or the moss temple. Those wishing to visit the gardens must apply by postcard 3 months in advance, pay a steep entry fee, and engage in a devotional activity before visiting the garden. Entry is by a lottery system and not all who apply are accepted. If you are not successful, Gio-ji temple also offers lovely moss grounds, though perhaps with fewer varieties of moss than Saiho-ji. Probably the most beautiful time to visit the gardens is in autumn when the changing colours of the leaves to reds, oranges, and yellows contrast with the rich deep green of the moss below; while others prefer June when the moss is lush and green.

Those with an interest in gardens may also wish to visit the Katsura Imperial Villa. The Villa itself is not open to the public, but the gardens and grounds offer an excellent example of a strolling garden. Dotted with teahouses and small pavilions, from which the gardens were appreciated by the Imperial family. The grounds can only be visited on a tour, which must be booked in advance via the Imperial Household Agency.

The area of Kyoto city, south of Kyoto station, has some interesting sights. To-ji Temple and Tofuku-ji Temple are UNESCO World Heritage sites lying in the south and southeast of the city centre. To-ji Temple is very old indeed, founded in 796. This Shingon Buddhist temple is one of the earliest in the city, having been founded just two years after Kyoto became the capital. It has associations with the historical figure Kobo Daishi, or Kukai, who spent time as the head priest of the temple. To-ji’s pagoda dates from the Edo period and is the tallest wooden tower in Japan. It is said that the relatively low height profile of the buildings in Kyoto are due to a general understanding that the buildings of the city should not be taller than the pagoda at To-ji temple. There are some structures that are higher, but these are few.

Tofuku-ji, a Zen Buddhist temple in southern Higashiyama, is famed for its autumn foliage. Admission to the Tsuten-kyo bridge, a favourite foliage viewing spot, is extremely popular in November. On the grounds of the temple are a number of maples that turn a glorious colour with the change of the season. During the rest of the year, a number of the sub-temples of the complex offer interesting gardens, including both dry stone, and moss and stone types. Also a UNESCO World Heritage temple, Tofuku-ji has a history stretching back into the 1200s.

Fushimi, in the Southeast of the downtown core, is famous for Fushimi Inari Shrine, with its hundreds of vermilion torii gates that snake their way up the mountain and are so packed together they create a near tunnel toward the upper shrine. The shrine has a long history, predating the establishment of Kyoto as a capital. Inari, the kami that often takes the form of a fox, is associated with rice. Near the shrine, you’ll find vendors of inari sushi – slightly sweet rice packed into a fried tofu pouch – and rice crackers bearing the image of a fox. Many of the large torii gates were dedicated by sake brewers, and this area is well known for sake production. A stroll through the Western area of the Fushimi district, near the Horikawa canal, takes you into the main sake producing area of the city. Gekkeikan, one of Japan’s best-known sake brewers, offers a sake museum and insights into how sake is brewed. For a small fee, you can also sample their sakes.

Uji, in southern Kyoto prefecture, is home to Byodo-in, a UNESCO World Heritage temple originally founded in 998 that appears on the 10 yen coin in Japan. The Temple’s Phoenix Hall is beautiful, and the surrounding garden is one of the few extant examples of a Pure Land garden. The treasury of the temple contains some quite beautifully carved artifacts. Several chapters of the classical Japanese work, The Tale of Genji, take place in Uji, and there is a museum locally dedicated to the work.

Uji may be a commuter belt town for many who work in Kyoto, but it is also famed globally for its production of green tea, and particularly of matcha, despite only a small percentage of all the green tea on sale coming from this small area of Kyoto. The ubiquitous matcha found in sweets and tearooms in Kyoto will often come from Uji, or perhaps nearby Wazuka, or Minamayamshiro, areas also known for their tea production. The sloping hillsides of tea bushes in the Doshenbo and Ishitera tea fields are particularly scenic. The geographies of both areas are well suited for the growth of tea. Throughout Uji, you’ll find several tea vendors and places where you can consume tea. The Tusen Chaya teahouse is famous, built in 1160, and it is thought to have served tea to several historical Japanese figures. While the current building dates to the 1600s, it carries the patina of its centuries of operation.

For those who prefer whiskey to sake, a visit to the Suntory Yamazaki Distillery in Yamazaki will bring you to the distillery of one of Japan’s best-known brands. After booking in advance, visitors can visit the distillery’s museum and tour the facility.

For a taste of the countryside within the city limits of Kyoto, Ohara is a town nestled in the mountains in the North of the city. The main draw for local visitors is Saizen-in Temple, founded by Saicho, the originator of the Tendai sect of Buddhism, in the eighth century. Sanzen-in is one of five Monzeki temples – temples where Imperial family members served as head priests. As is the norm in Japan, the route to the temple is lined with shops and restaurants that cater to the needs of visitors. There are several smaller temples around Saizenin – Shoren-in, Hosen-in, Jikko-in, Jorengei-in, and Raigo-in – also of the Tendai sect. Behind the main temple in the forest is the Otonashi waterfall.

Miyama is a beautiful village of preserved kayabuki, or thatched-roof cottages, located roughly 50 km north of Kyoto city in Kyoto Prefecture. The vast majority of the kayabuki are private residences, and the village is a living village but does offer some small restaurants that cater to visitors that come for this taste of traditional Japan. At the end of the town is the entrance to the Ashiu forest, a pristine forest that can only be entered with a guide as it is home to rare plants and is a habitat for wild monkeys, bears, and deer. The land here is owned and stewarded by the University of Kyoto.

Amanohashidate lies in the area known as ‘Kyoto by the Sea’. In a nation that loves to rank views, Amanohashidate is said to be one of the top three views of Japan. This 3.3 km sandbar stretches across Miyazu Bay is covered by evergreens, and at its end, the picturesque Motoise Kono shrine is located. The unique geographic attributes of this area were surely a home to powerful kami, and the name Amanohashidate means ‘bridge to heaven, and was the route that founding god Izanagi took from heaven to reach Izanami. It’s easy to see how it was perceived as such. The sandbar can be traveled on foot or by bicycle. Nearby, some more modern attractions, including an amusement park, have been built on the hillsides overlooking this popular destination.

The small fishing village of Ine lies in the very north of Kyoto prefecture on the Tango Peninsula and is famous for its funaya. These buildings combine fishermen’s residences with boathouses that open out directly onto the bay. There are several ways to see the funaya. The best way to view them is through a cruise on the bay, which will allow you to see the funaya from the perspective of the fishermen that live there, as these are private homes for many villagers. For those who wish to take a do-it-yourself approach to get a seaside view, there are also sea kayaking options on the bay. Some of the over 200 funaya have been converted into accommodations accepting guests, making it possible to see the inside of a funaya and experience a stay perched above the water.

Osaka Prefecture

Osaka Prefecture is a powerhouse. It is the second smallest prefecture in Japan in terms of landmass, but in terms of population, the prefecture is the second most populous in Japan and is home to no less than 7% of the country’s people. Much of this population clusters in and around the large city and conurbation of Osaka, making it a vibrant and lively city, often included as one of the ‘must-visit’ places on urban travelers’ itineraries for Japan. As far as ‘second cities’ go, everything seems brighter, flashier, and noisier in this city with a real joie de vivre. While Kyoto is a city of history and old imperial and military influences, Osaka has a long history as a port city and was once known as Naniwa. Naniwa served as the earliest capital of Japan when they still moved to the palace of the prevailing emperor. Osaka has in modern times emerged as the commercial and business heart of Japan. Osaka Prefecture is bordered to the Northwest and West by Hyogo Prefecture, to the North and northeast by Kyoto, to the East by Nara, and to the South by Wakayama. It sits squarely in the heart of Kansai. Osaka Bay sits to the Southwest. The city is characterized by a series of canals and rivers that travel through the city, allowing for the movement of goods to and from the port.

Osaka is also one of the main international air gateways for Japan, with two airports in the Prefecture. Kansai International Airport was built on reclaimed land in Osaka Bay and sits south of the city. When arriving at Kansai Airport, you can travel onward to Osaka by two trail lines departing from the Kansai International Airport train station which connects to the airport. There is also limousine bus service to the city. There are a limited number of domestic services that arrive at Kansai International Airport. Most international air traffic arrives at Kansai Airport. Osaka International Airport, also known as Itami, is the primary domestic airport for Osaka. Itami is connected to central Osaka by limousine buses and Osaka’s monorail system. When traveling from Tokyo, the simplest way to travel is by bullet train, as the total travel time from the city centre to city centre is shorter.

The northeast of Osaka prefecture consists largely of commuter towns where the workers of Kyoto and Osaka raise their families. There are smaller parks, temples and shrines, and shopping malls in this area. When traveling between the cities, you may see some of the major Japanese companies with a presence in the area – Meiji chocolate, Yamazaki Whiskey, Nintendo, and more. Ikeda lies in the north of Osaka Prefecture. For those seeking a different way to explore Japanese cuisine, and one of its biggest food exports, the cup noodle museum offers an interesting way to spend a morning or afternoon. Visitors learn about the rise of instant ramen, a convenience food that is now consumed far and wide outside Japan and even have a chance to make a personalized ramen, complete with their own decorated cup.Takarazuka is another spot in Northern Osaka well known to the Japanese – primarily for its all-female troupe of dramatic performers. While in classical Kabuki, men play both men and women’s roles, in an about-face, the Takarazuka Revue has women playing both men and women’s roles.

The northern part of Osaka prefecture is also a good location to seek out greenery and peaceful parks. In 1970, the World Expo came to Osaka. The former exposition grounds were turned into a large 264-hectare public park complex, with museums, and play areas. Thousands of cherry trees are planted in the park, making it popular in springtime, but it is equally beautiful in the autumn foliage season. Taro Okamoto’s iconic ‘Tower of the Sun’, a landmark of the Expo, still sits within the grounds of the park, and it is now home to the well-regarded National Museum of Ethnology and the Japan Folk Crafts Museum. For those seeking to unwind after some time in the city, the Japanese gardens within the park offer a tranquil respite.

Minoo Park offers another tranquil area to escape the buzz of the city. Lying just north of Osaka, the park is largely forested, making it a wonderful location to view the changing autumn foliage in late November as the trees on the mountains shift to beautiful crimson, yellow, and orange hues. The momiji, or autumn maple leaves, are even served in tempura here, so in addition to appreciating the view with your sense of sight, you can enjoy them with your senses of smell and taste. The popular ‘centerpiece’ of the park for day visitors from the city is the 3km route to its waterfall. The route is lined with quaint shops and eateries. Halfway along the route to the waterfall lies Ryuan-ji Temple, a focal point of Shugendo activity in the area. In addition to the gentle walk to the waterfall, there are other more challenging hikes in the mountains. Deeper in the park is Katsuo-ji Temple. For 1300 years, visitors, including Emperors and Lords, have come to pray for luck or victory in their endeavors. As a testament to their success, many leave daruma with both eyes filled, indicating a wish granted.

The Northern area of the city of Osaka is its newer modern heart and has developed in recent years as a transportation hub. Visitors arriving by shinkansen, or bullet train, arrive at Shin-Osaka station, built specifically to accommodate the fastest train route and service both the Tokaido (Tokyo to Shin-Osaka) and San’yo (Shin-Osaka to Hakata) shinkansen routes. The station’s various floors offer restaurants, convenience stores, drugstores, and other shops that serve the needs of both business and leisure travelers. The Haruka line, which connects Kansai International Airport to the bullet train line and Kyoto, stops here also.

The city’s other main station, Osaka station, is a short subway journey away, south of the city’s Yodo River. Osaka station service Limited Express, Express, and local rail routes. It lies at the center of the Umeda district of Osaka. Having recently finished an extensive redevelopment project to improve the station, it is now at the heart of a modern complex of multi-use developments of shopping, office blocks, hotels, and entertainment. The surrounding complex is so large it has been named Osaka Station City, and it is nearly a city in and of itself. To the north of the station, the new Grand Front Osaka offers a similar mix of shopping, offices, hotels, and dining, with the new development made possible by moving an old freight yard. Sitting between Osaka station, and the neighbouring Umeda station is the Links Umeda building, a further multi-use complex. Umeda station is the hub of the Hankyu line, one of the many private lines that stretches out from the Osaka areas.

Within the Umeda area are sights that demonstrate modern Osaka’s exuberance. The Umeda Sky Building, northwest of Osaka Station, consists of two 40-story towers joined by a rooftop observatory complex. It provides a great location to look out over Osaka day or night for a view of the northern part of the city. It’s a popular spot for dating couples. For more night views, the Ferris wheel at the top of the HEP 5 shopping mall offers a great way to watch the sun go down. Beneath the streets of the city lies a spider web of underground shopping complexes, which are complemented above by covered shopping arcades. Doyamacho to the east of Umeda station is the city’s lively gay and lesbian district.

East of Umeda is the Tenma district of Osaka. Tenma is known for its food and traditional Osakan eateries and izakaya, particularly to the north of Tenma station. A 2-kilometer long covered shopping arcade, Tenjibashi-suji, travels through the area from Tenjin station to the Dojima river. Near the river, off of the arcade is Osaka Tenmangu Shrine, a shrine dating back to the 10th century, which is beloved by locals, and which is the heart of Osaka’s Tenjin Matsuri, one of the three great festivals in Japan. In July an exuberant celebration occurs where a mikoshi is carried throughout the neighbourhood. It’s a great area to explore for a taste of everyday Osaka. For those seeking a historic look back at everyday life in Osaka, the Osaka Museum of Housing and Living, which brings history to life with recreated stores, houses, and streets.

The sandbank of land between Dojima River and the Tosahori River is the island of Nakanoshima, home to Osaka’s City Hall. For those with an interest in ceramics, the Museum of Oriental Ceramics contains stellar examples not just from Japan but from throughout Asia. A traditional rose garden reflects some of the European influences in architecture and landscaping on Nakanoshima. The island is a pleasant place to stroll. In addition to the Osaka branch of the Bank of Japan, on the western side of the island art lovers will find the National Museum of Art, Osaka. Modern art in all forms, including photography and video, is the focus of the exhibitions held here. Families will find interactive exhibits and a planetarium at the Museum of Science, also located on the Western side of Nakanoshima.

Osaka’s most prominent landmark is its castle, standing proudly in the extensive parklands of Osaka Castle Park. Nearby lies the area where the former Naniwa Palace stood. The current Osaka Castle is a concrete replica. A castle was first built here by Toyotomi Hideyoshi but was burnt down by the Tokugawa Shogunate that took power to prevent Toyotomi’s followers from using the castle as a rallying point. In its place, in later years, the Tokugawa Shogunate built their own castle here which was completed in 1629. The main tower was destroyed by fire in 1665 and the entire structure was destroyed in 1868. The current replica was built in 1931 and houses a museum that brings to life the history of the castle. The moats and stone are a testament to the might of the Tokugawa Shoguns. For those who wish to learn more about Osaka’s history, stretching back to its Naniwa days, the nearby Museum of History reveals Osaka’s long past.

The Minami or Southern area of Osaka is now its modern heart, and it is a bustling area of the city near and around Namba station.

Dotonbori is a street running parallel to Dotonbori Canal. It is lined with a variety of casual restaurants, many of which serve into the small hours of the morning, or indeed on a 24-hour basis. The Osaka reputation for kuidaore is illustrated in the Dotonbori area. Some of the neon and signage that are well-loved landmarks of Osaka, such as the Glico man, and the moving crab sign of Kani Doraku, are found along the Ebisu bridge over the Dotonbori Canal. Cruises operate along the canal for those seeking a canal-eye view of Dotonbori. Those seeking kabuki will find performances at the Shochiku-za theater.

Those seeking more traditional Japanese restaurants will find these in Hozen-ji Yokocho. At its western end, you’ll find Hozen-ji Temple. The focus of devotion here is Fudo-Myo, and the statue is covered thick with moss kept vibrant by the water worshippers ladle over the statue. Nearby is the small Kamigata Ukiyo-e museum, featuring Kamigata woodblock prints that are typical of the Osaka era, featuring kabuki leading lights.

Running perpendicular to Dotonbori Canal and heading north is the Shinsaibashi shopping arcade, a covered arcade of shops extending 600 meters. Here you’ll find casual restaurants, shops with local delicacies, hotels, department stores, and clothing and brand shops. The shopping district itself has a 400-year history but most shops cater to the modern needs of residents and visitors.

East of Shinsaibashi is the Amerikamura district, where you’ll find some of Osaka’s more avant-garde fashion designers, boutique shops, second-hand shops, and cafes. You’ll find Osaka’s street fashion and up-to-the-minute styles. In the evening Amerikamura (also known as Amemura) is a popular nightlife district, with bars and small clubs.

Japan has a tradition of puppet theatre, bunraku, which originated with the 17th century Ningyo joruri tradition. Bunraku today is considered a UNESCO Intangible Cultural World Heritage. Performances feature a narrator, musical accompaniment, often by shamisen, and ornate puppets artfully articulated by masters clad in black. With their skill, the inanimate puppets take on a life of their own. The National Bunraku Theater is in the Minami district, east of Shinsaibashi and south of Dotonbori. Bunraku performances are targeted to adult audiences rather than the enjoyment of children and the tales performed are sometimes tragedies.

Kuromon Ichiba, Osaka’s well-loved market, lies near the National Bunraku Theatre. This market has its origins in feeding the people of Osaka and contains vendors of meat, seafood, fruits, and vegetables. The popularity of the market with visitors has led some stallholders to offer foods that appeal to those wanting instant gratification and who wish to snack while they explore. With 580 meters of the market to explore and 150 shops, there are plenty of opportunities to eat your way through the market. Or enjoy a meal in one of the restaurants that can be found in the market.

The Namba area brings together several different transportation links: JR, the Hanshin Line, the Kintetsu Line, the Nankai Line, and the Osaka Metro. The area caters to commuters and travelers of all sorts with many shopping complexes, Osaka’s flagship Takashimaya department store, and the relatively new Namba Parks development. Some of this shopping is more specialized. To the east and just south of the Namba Nankai station lies Denden town – Osaka’s answer to Akihabara, featuring electronics stores, games arcades, and anime shops. The Doguyasuji district serves the restaurant trade and is a great place to pick up a takoyaki pan, should you wish to make this Osaka specialty at home.

In the area nestled between the Minami district and the Tennoji area is Shin Sekai, or ‘New World’. It was initially built in the early 1900s following the National Industrial Exposition. Tsutenkaku Tower provided a focal point for the area and to the south was an amusement park inspired by Coney Island. The popularity of the area dwindled before the war and Tsutenkaku Tower and the area sustained damage during the war. The tower, the focal point of the area, was rebuilt in 1956. The area is awash with bright lights and beckoning restaurants, particularly those serving kushikatsu, and while the area does have a reputation for being a bit rough around the edges, it is certainly lively.

The Tennoji area of Osaka is one of the city’s oldest. The area has at its heart Shitennoji Temple, the oldest Buddhist temple in Japan. Orders to build the temple were given in the year 593 by Prince Shotoku. While the buildings in the current temple precincts post-date the founding of the temple, with most built from the 17th to the 20th century, there is a long spiritual tradition and much to discover here. The ‘Shi’ in Shitennoji refers to the four heavenly kings of Buddhism that protect the earth from evil. The Chushin Garan area, housing the main temple building and treasury provide some insights into the temple, and the Gokurakujodo gardens are one of a few remaining examples of a paradise garden design. A popular monthly flea market brings local visitors and travelers alike. On a sunny day, you’ll find basking turtles in most of the small water features of the precinct. The five-storied pagoda can be climbed for views over the precinct, and it enshrines Prince Shotoku as a Kannon. The temple is famous for its lively Doya Doya festival in January, where men dressed in loincloths in the winter cold scramble to get their hands on paper charms. The temple is also considered by many to be a power spot.

The Abeno Harukas building, also in the Tennoji area, is a recent addition to the area. You’ll be sure not to miss it, as at 300m tall, it is Japan’s largest building. The multi-use complex contains a train station, Japan’s largest department store, an art museum, a rooftop garden, restaurants, a hotel, and offices. The Harukas 300 observation deck offers views over the entirety of Osaka and into the distance. The Tennoji area is also home to Osaka’s Tennoji Zoo, and the Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts.

In Southern Osaka, Sumiyoshi Taisha is the head shrine of over 2300 Sumiyoshi shrines in Japan. There has been a shrine at Sumiyoshi for 1800 years and it is commonly associated with maritime activities and travel. Accordingly, oversized ema plaques have been left by seafarers and ocean-going organizations over the years and can be found on the grounds of the shrine. The high arch of the Sorihasi bridge marks the entrance to the shrine. The architectural style of the shrine, Sumiyoshi Zukuri, is one of the oldest forms of shrine architecture in Japan – eschewing influences from outer Asia and reflecting a style with purely Japanese roots. The shrine is extremely popular for hatsumode, the tradition of making a shrine or temple visit early at the start of the new year. Millions will make their way to the shrine in the first few days of the new year. Throughout the year, the shrine is at the center of several Shinto festivities.

Osaka Bay area, in the city’s southwest, is the home bustling area of modern entertainment for the whole family. For those seeking theme park adventure, the Japanese outpost of Universal Studios is located on the bay. A complex of accommodations and entertainments lie in the area immediate to the theme park. Known commonly as USJ, the theme park is often busy with long queues for the most in-demand rides. It is popular with domestic and international visitors alike. A ‘Super Nintendo World’ has opened within the park, for those with an interest in gaming. Younger visitors are accommodated with Sesame Street-themed attractions and gentle rides. Meanwhile, the pre-teen set can often be found in the Harry Potter-themed rides and attractions.

On the bay, you’ll also find Osaka’s magnificent aquarium, Kaiyukan. The theme of the Aquarium is the Pacific ocean’s ‘ring of fire’ and draws on locations from around the Pacific rim. Japanese otters, spider crabs from the depth of the arctic circle, creatures from off the Ecuadorian rainforest, and Antarctic penguins all feature in the aquarium. Whale sharks to jellyfish, rays to octopi – all can be found at Kaiyukan. For those who wish to take in the ocean from the air, the Tempozan Ferris Wheel at Tempozan marketplace also offers views over Osaka, and a full turn around the wheel takes 17 minutes due to its great height. Further onward, the port of Osaka services ferries to Shikoku and Kyushu. Some convention centers also cluster at the port.

The city of Sakai lies south of Osaka. Sakai is home to several ancient keyhole-shaped kofun or tumuli. The kofun were built in the 3rd to 7th century and are feats of engineering. Though they do not contain buildings, it is thought that it took at least 15 years and 2000 workers to create the sites. The tumulus area can not be entered, but there are shrines and temples around the site dedicated to those buried within. Technology however allows us an approximation of what the kofun are like, and a virtual reality experience at the Sakai city museum seeks to provide visitors with a taste of what the kofun are like. The tumulus is encompassed by three moats, making it clear even centuries later that these kofun were to remain inaccessible.

The Mozu Furuichi tumuli are home to 49 tombs and several iron age archaeological finds have been made in the tomb area, including weaponry, and terracotta figures called Haniwa. The purpose of these ancient Haniwa are mysterious but are thought to designate a sacred space. These finds come from outside the kofun themselves as archaeologists may not enter or disturb the kofun. The largest of the keyhole tumuli at Mozu is thought to contain the grave of Emperor Nintoku. In all at Mozu, there are 44 tombs spread across a 4 km square area. Emperors Richu and Hanzei are also buried in Kofun in the Sakai area. The kofun were designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2019.

Sakai is also famous for its metalworking traditions, and swords, knives, scissors, and the like are still crafted here using ancient methods. The town’s Hamono Museum chronicles the knifemaking tradition in Sakai. Chefs from the world over seek out the hand-crafted knives made in Sakai that are considered to be exceptionally strong and sharp. Mizuno Tarenjyo continues to make swords and knives using an open flame and bellows to control the heat needed to soften, reshape, and forge strong steel blades. Some knifemakers offer visitors the chance to learn how to properly sharpen a knife and to learn other parts of the knifemaking process, such as fitting handles to the steel blades. Metalworking in the area was not limited to blade-making. As blades gave way to firearms in military technology, Sakai became the leading region in Japan for firearm production. Most of the historic gunsmith buildings are no more, but the 17th-century residence and shop of Sekiemon Inoue remain and can be visited for insights into the lives of the gunsmiths of the Edo period. The building, dating from the late 1600s, is one of the oldest examples of machiya construction in Japan in original condition. The surrounding Kitahatagocho region of Sakai still retains a feel of those times. Still, the craftsmen of Sakai continue to reinvent themselves and reorient their production to progress. Guns are no longer produced in Sakai, and at Sasuke, the current master is the 22nd generation to be engaged in metalwork. However, while the first 17 generations produced guns, the 5 most recent generations shifted production to knives and scissors.

The area also has a long history. The Mozu Hachimangu shrine is said to have been built during the 6th century. A tree on the grounds of the shrine is thought to be up to 800 years old. The shrine still preserves the old tradition of conducting a moon-viewing festival during August of the lunar calendar to pray for a rich harvest. The Kotani family was one of the dominant families in the area, and Kotani Castle continues to chronicle the history of the clan and exhibits various works of art and archaeological finds. The castle itself is now in ruins, the main family houses and outbuildings can still be visited today. The Otani that made the castle their home were members of the Taira clan.

The famous tea master, Sen no Rikyu, who originated the Senke school of tea ceremony, was born in the Imaichi area of Sekai city. The site of his house is commemorated here, and though the house itself is gone, the well associated with it remains.

South of Sakai is Kishiwada, a city of Osaka Prefecture that is famous for its lively, and downright dangerous Kishiwada Danjiri festival. During the festival, famous throughout Japan and typically attended by half a million people, 35 beautifully carved floats are run throughout the city at high speed. The floats are fearlessly navigated by the Daiku-Gata, who balance on top of the roof of each float, directing progress while it whips through the city. For those who visit Kishiwada outside of festival time, there is a Kishiwada Danjiri Museum that brings the festival to life and places it within the context of local life in the community over the previous 300 years. Kishiwada Castle also offers an opportunity to enjoy traditional Japan juxtaposed with modern Japan. Its Stone Garden was designed by architect and designer Mirei Shigemori.

Shiga Prefecture

Shiga prefecture lies in eastern Kansai and is bordered to the north by Fukui prefecture, to the east by Gifu prefecture, to the south by Mie prefecture, and by Kyoto prefecture to the west. The prefecture is home to Biwako, or Lake Biwa, the largest lake in Japan. Shiga sits at the crossroads of Eastern and Western Japan, and settlement here dates back to the 7th century with Emperor Tenji establishing a palace at Otsu and making it temporarily Japan’s capital. With such a long history of settlement and an important location on the island of Honshu, the prefecture is home to many sights of historical significance. Many visitors pass through Shiga prefecture on the shinkansen or bullet train, as it makes its way to nearby Kyoto, but don’t stop, preferring instead to devote their time to Japan’s more enduring ancient capital. The hidden beauty of this region is held quietly by those living in Kansai.

Lake Biwa is undeniably the most prominent feature of the area, taking up a sixth of the prefecture’s size. Farmland, primarily rice-producing, takes up another sixth of the land. Most of Shiga’s notable sights are located in the area around Lake Biwa. The lake was formed 4-6 million years ago, making it one of the earth’s oldest lakes, and measures 80 km from north to south, and at its widest point, measures 24 km. It has been categorized as a UNESCO Ramsar wetland and is home to numerous local species endemic to the area. In the centuries past, the lake was a means for moving goods over distance and was key to trade in the region. The waters of Lake Biwa are revered by both the Shinto and Buddhist faiths, associated with purification and cleansing, as well as protection.

Otsu, the capital of Shiga prefecture, sits at the southern end of the lake, an easy 10-minute train journey from Kyoto. Lake cruises depart from Otsu, and hotels take advantage of the beautiful backdrop provided by the lake for wedding functions. If you can overcome the seeming disconnect to place, you can even enjoy a paddle steamer cruise on the lake that might make you think you are cruising the Mississippi instead of Lake Biwa. Given the proximity to Kyoto, and by extension to Osaka, it is not surprising that there are also facilities that cater to those coming to Lake Biwa for recreation. There are watersports companies, serving those looking to kayak, canoe, sail, or windsurf on the lake and for those who wish to keep the lake in the background, there are also bicycle rental companies. Stand-up paddling, and of course, swimming, are great summer options. Omi Maiko beach, on the western shore of the lake, is a great location for the latter.

Mt. Hiei, straddling both Kyoto and Shiga prefectures, and located between Kyoto and Lake Biwa, is considered to be a sacred mountain and it features within the Japanese creation myths of the Shinto tradition. This reverence was also felt in the recently arrived Buddhist faith, and Enryaku-ji Temple was founded in 788 and is the home of the Tendai sect of Buddhism. Enryaku-ji is known for its ‘marathon monks’ or gojya that express their devotion through physical exertion beyond most. They’ve earned this moniker from the practice of kaihogyo, a 1,000-day test of endurance and strength that includes refraining from taking food or drink for many days at a time, making pilgrimages to scores of sites of significance on the mountain, and running 84 km for 100 days in a row. It is not a devotion for the weak and many performing kaihogyo over the centuries have not come out of their challenge alive. From 1835 there have only been 46 gojya. The founders of several other Buddhist sects in Japan studied here before diverging from the Tendai path.

The marathon monks are not the only well-known people associated with Enryaku-ji, though not without devastating impact to the temple complex. During the warring states period in the late 16th century, the temple and its physically powerful and influential monks were considered a threat to political power, and as was commonplace throughout Japanese history, the tension between sacred and secular power led to conflict. Oda Nobunaga attacked Mt. Hiei and razed all but one of the temple buildings. Most of those standing today were built in the Edo period. For the purists and active travelers, the most satisfying means to reach Enryaku ji temple is on foot, but for many more, the temple is reached by funicular.

In the inland area to the west of Lake Biwa, Biwako Valley is a ski and snowboarding resort of modest height that perhaps is best enjoyed in the green season. There is a zipline for thrills, and a visit to the Biwako Terrace is a must for those that wish to take in an expansive view of the lake. It is possible to access the Biwako terrace by the Zekkei ropeway.

Both captivatingly beautiful and ancient, the Shirahige shrine lies on the western shore of Lake Biwa in the northern town of Takashima. The shrine has been an ancient sacred spot for nearly 2000 years and is marked by more recent buildings. Perhaps it is not surprising given the age of the shrine that the deity enshrined here, Sarutahiko-no-Mikoto, is associated with longevity. The shrine’s torii gate standing in the waters of Lake Biwa is a photographer’s dream. Closer to Otsu the Ukimido or floating main hall of Mangetsu-ji temple sits on the lake and can be accessed by a promenade over the water. The current structure is a 20th-century reconstruction of the original, but the temple itself dates back to the 8th century. The Ukimido houses 1000 Buddha statues.

Southeast of the southernmost point of Lake Biwa lies Miho, Shigaraki, and Koka. Miho is home to the Miho Museum, built by renowned architect I.M. Pei, who also built the Louvre’s modern-day glass pyramid. There are echoes of that pyramid here. Most of the museum lies underground and it blends into the background. The collection here consists primarily of Japanese art and artifacts. Shigaraki is a centre for pottery and is one of the six old pottery towns of Japan. It has also carved out quite a niche in creating large ceramic tanuki figures. This raccoon dog is known to enjoy a drink and is known in folklore as a shapeshifter. Tanuki figurines are often found at establishments serving alcohol. Koka is a town that is dedicated to the art of stealth and is home to a Ninja village and home of a well-known ninja clan. The house retains secret passageways, trap doors, and security measures that protected the ninja. The ninja village also has elements of these secret methods on a less grand scale.

The eastern shores of Lake Biwa are home to lakefront towns that retain some of their historic feel. Omi-Hachiman, one of the post towns of the Nakasendo Trail, was a hub for the famed Omi merchants. The town has a picturesque canal district lined with Edo period merchant homes and weeping willows. In warmer months you can travel by boat through the canals. The high living of the local merchants can be explored in the Shin-machi Dori street of the town, and in particular the Nishikawa Residence. The local museum also provides insights into the history of the town. For a view of the lake, a trip by ropeway up Mt Hachiman to the site where a castle once stood.

The castle in Hikone, further along the eastern shore of Lake Biwa, still stands proudly and is one of a select few that has been designated a National Treasure. The main keep of the castle has changed very little since the castle was built in 1622. It is a largely original castle, and as such allows visitors to see how the defenses of a feudal castle were deployed. The Hikone Castle Museum, at the base of the castle, has reconstructions of the feudal palace rooms to further illustrate life at the castle. A stroll through the nearby Genkyuen garden, which also belonged to the Ii daimyo or lords that ruled this area, may leave you feeling like a daimyo yourself as you stroll through the changing scenery.

North of Hikone on the eastern shore of the lake lies Nagahama, another castle town. Nagahama was the local power base of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who built a castle here in 1575. The castle that stands today is a replica of the original, with a museum and exhibits that trace the history of the area back to the prehistoric Jomon period. Nagahama port is the jumping-off point for visits to Chichibu Island, an uninhabited island in the lake with a temple and shrine that are a millennium old.

When visiting Shiga, there are two local specialties. The first of these is Omi beef, a kind of wagyu known for its flavour and one of the oldest types of wagyu beef. It is also ranked among the three top kinds of wagyu. The other specialty of the area is also a historic one but is not to everyone’s tastes. It is funasushi – pickled and fermented fish stuffed with rice. They are strongly flavoured.

Nara Prefecture

Modern-day Nara prefecture sits in an area that is one of Japan’s historically significant ancient kingdoms and is considered to be the heartland of Japan’s cultural traditions. Nara city was Japan’s first permanent capital, known at that time as Heijo-kyo, from 710 to 784, and the other ‘floating’ capitals like Asuka and Fujiwara that pre-dated Heijo-kyo were also located in what is now Nara Prefecture. Before the establishment of Heijo-kyo, the ancient imperial capitals moved from location to location so that the reigning Emperor would not be impacted by ill fortune arising from the death of the previous Emperor. Emperor Shomu set down the roots of the Imperial family in 710.

Before Nara became the Imperial capital, the lands of present-day Nara prefecture saw the emergence of the first civil structures in Japan. The Yamato period, from 250 to 710, saw the rice kingdoms of Japan shaped by influences from China and Korea, including the establishment of Confucian influenced bureaucracy. The early Kofun period, from 250 to 538, saw the rise of the first state in Japan, as several clans and rice kingdoms. The kings of these family groups sought to secure the well-being of their people through native rituals. The accumulation of wealth that came with the rise of rice kingdoms allowed these leaders to be commemorated in style on their passing, and many were buried in shaped mounds that still dot the area. By the 300’s, the Yamato clan came to dominate as these clans and families came together in a unified domain.

The power of Yamato extended westward as far as northern Kyushu, but by the 500’s the power of the Yamato clans began to decline. Prince Shotoku was instrumental in leading several reforms to the systems and the Soga clan he was from was also key in importing Buddhism to Japan. For 1300 years Buddhism sat comfortably with Shinto as the guiding principles of the nation. As the early home of Buddhism in Japan, Nara prefecture is home to many significant temples, and this land-locked prefecture has the greatest number of UNESCO World Heritage sites in Japan.

One of the earliest of these temples that remains is Horyu-ji temple, a UNESCO World Heritage site founded in the year 601. The extensive temple complex still has some of its early buildings dating back to the 7th and 8th centuries, making them some of the oldest wooden buildings in the world. You’ll also find some of Japan’s earliest Buddhist statues on display here. The decline in the influence of the Soga clan and a difficult period where foreign influences were replaced by foreign threats led to a centralization of power in the Yamato clan, and the creation of a feudal system, where the private ownership of land by clans was replaced with state ownership of the land and rights of use by the clans. The Taika reforms and the implementation of the ritsuryo system centralized power in the Emperor. Buddhist culture began to flourish in Japan, while at the same time the native religion of Shinto became a force by which the Emperors were able to consolidate their power. The Nihon Shoki and the Kojiki, ancient histories of Japan, showed the descent of the Emperors directly from Japan’s creator God and Goddess.

Nara city is the home of the former capital, Heijo-kyo. The Nishinokyo area of Nara is home to the site of the former Imperial Palace and the palace grounds were thought to extend over an area of a square kilometer. A reconstruction of a palace gate, the Imperial Audience Hall, and the gardens give a taste of what the original complex may have been like. UNESCO World Heritage temple Yakushii-ji, with its two pagodas, and Toshodai-ji temple, one of the only remaining buildings of the Heijo imperial palace complex, are also found in the former Western area of the ancient capital.

Many of the temples and sights that visitors see in Nara today in the Nara Park area lie in what was once the outer edge of the imperial capital. Kofuku-ji temple was once the family temple of the powerful Fujiwara clan and was built in Nara when the capital was built. Its pagoda is Japan’s second tallest and the temple is home to two octagonal halls that are restorations of the originals, though one of these restorations dates back to the 1200s. Emperor Shomu called for the building of Todai-ji, a temple that still stands today in altered form, with the daibutsu, a magnificently gargantuan bronze Buddha within, and the largest in the world. The temple is one of the world’s largest wooden buildings even though it is a fraction of the size of previous iterations of the temple.

Nearby Todaiji is the National Museum of Nara, which is the repository of many statues and artwork associated with Nara’s temples, and Isuien Gardens, a Japanese strolling style of garden with ponds and teahouses that borrows the scenery of Mount Wakakusa, the mountain that dominates Nara, as its backdrop. At the far end of Nara Park is Kasuga Taisha, Nara’s revered shrine which marks a gateway to the primeval and sacred forest beyond. The shrine’s approach is lined with stone lanterns, and within the shrine, many bronze lanterns. Twice a year, all the shrine’s lanterns are lit, making it a stunning place to visit at dusk. Nara Park is most famous for its tame deer that roam freely throughout the park without barriers or hindrances. The deer are considered to be sacred messengers of the gods and are revered. Vendors sell special rice crackers that are safe for the deer to eat for visitors that wish to feed the deer. It’s smart to exercise caution because while the deer roam freely, they are still wild animals.

The Naramachi area of the city is the old merchant quarters, and today many older buildings remain, converted into boutiques, small restaurants, cafes, and galleries. A wander through the warren of narrow streets is a great counterpoint to the temples and shrines of the Nara Park area. Many of the buildings in the Naramachi district are built in the Machiya style, and had shopfronts at the front, with merchant residences in the rear. Some of the machiya contain small private museums with collected artifacts and crafts. As you walk through the district, you may see brightly coloured (often red) fabric figures hanging in strings from the building. These stuffed faceless abstract figures are called migawari-saru and are fashioned after monkeys. These monkey dolls, considered to be messengers, bring the makers’ wishes to the gods and protect them and their loved ones from illness or disaster. One further significant sacred site sits in the heart of Naramachi, Gango-ji Temple, considered to be Japan’s oldest temple. The temple was built in Asuka in 680 and was moved to Nara when Heijo-kyo became the capital. It is especially known for its Mandala, and the rows of jizo statues on the temple grounds.

While some of the temples of the former imperial capital of Asuka were moved to the new more permanent capital in Nara, several significant temples and shrines remain. Asuka is where the first Emperor of Japanese recorded history arrived in the area 1300 years before the Nara period. Kashihara Jingu, a more modern Meiji-era shrine, enshrines this first Emperor, Emperor Jimmu, who is buried nearby. Further kofun or tombs can be found in the area, including the Ishibutai tomb of stone, and the Tamatsuzaka tomb. Emperor Temmu, who is associated with Asuka’s history as an imperial capital before Nara, was the first to be given the title of Tenno or Emperor of Japan. The town is also home to mysterious ancient stone monuments, whose source and origin remain unclear. Rental cycles are readily available in the town and exploring the monuments on foot or by bicycle is a pleasant way to visit not just the monuments, but some of the historic areas of the town. Beautiful rice terraces lie on the edges of the town. Asuka-dera is the site of one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Japan. The current buildings are much later, with the originals lost to history, but the temple’s bell remains, and its Buddha is the oldest Japanese example, created 20 years after the temple was founded in 596. Near Kashihara Jingu, the preserved townscapes of Imai-cho provide a taste of Nara in the more recent Edo period. Merchant and samurai houses and buildings remain as a testament to the further unification of Japan into a nation.

The neighbouring Sakurai area is home to historic temples and shrines and historic trails of the area, mentioned in the Kojiki and Nihonshoki, Japan’s first histories. The Yamanobe no Michi is Japan’s oldest road, passing through the countryside. The section of the trail between Tenri and Miwa takes walkers past significant temples and shrines, including the Omiwa shrine, thought to be one of the oldest shrines in Japan, and has unique characteristics. Mount Miwa is the object of worship of this shrine, and the mountain is considered so sacred that those seeking to ascend to the top must first seek permission at Sai shrine nearby as an ascent is considered to be a devotional act of pilgrimage and those ascending must follow strict rules. The waters at Sai Shrine are considered to have healing powers. This 11km stretch of trail is largely a dirt path, with some paved sections as it weaves through local villages and communities. It has some steep sections but is largely level and suitable for novice walkers.
Tanzan shrine lies in the southern Sakurai area and while it is now designated a shrine, for centuries this place of worship reflected Japan’s spiritual tradition of Shinto and Buddhist practices operating side by side. The shrine is especially beautiful in autumn months and a more strenuous hike is possible here.

East of Omiwa shrine lies Hasedera temple, which sits on the mountainside. The Temple was founded in the 7th century and is popular in both spring and autumn for its cherry blossoms and foliage. There is an active monastic community at Hasedera. Muro-ji, a temple also to the east of Sakurai and Omiwa shrine, lies deep in the mountain forests. While for many centuries, Koyasan only allowed admission by men, both male and female devotees were welcome at Muro-ji.

The Yamanobe no Michi is certainly not the only hike in Nara Prefecture. The many rural areas of the prefecture lend themselves to hikes and discovery of the natural environment as much as the spiritual environment. Other popular walking routes of the area have a more practical origin. The Yagyu Kaido was the path between Nara and the sword-making village of Yagyu. Warriors would trek to the master swordsmiths of the Yagyu area. The hike is a more active hike through rural areas and finishes with a descent from Mount Wakakusa into Nara city.

Western Nara is home to Ikoma, where you’ll find Chogosonshi-ji Temple. The temple offers shukubo accommodation, and we recommend rising early for the morning prayer service. The Temple is dedicated to Bisshamonten, a god of war and it is said that Bisshamonten appeared to Prince Shotoku here before a battle, on the hour, day, and year of the tiger. He was successful in battle and ordered a temple to be raised here. Throughout the temple complex are emblems and figures of tigers. This temple is one of Japan’s earliest Buddhist temples.

Mount Yoshino, in southern Nara Prefecture, is part of the UNESCO World Heritage monuments of the Kii Peninsula and it forms the start of a pilgrimage route to the Kumano Kodo area. Yoshino is famous for its cherry blossoms in the spring as the 30,000 cherry trees in the area reveal their blooms. During the power struggle between the shoguns and Emperor Go-Daigo in the 13th and 14th centuries, Yoshino also served as an alternate imperial capital, while the power of the shoguns remained centered in Kyoto. He ruled from Yoshimizu Shrine and died in Yoshino. His mausoleum stands on the grounds of Nyorin-ji Temple.

Yoshino is also associated with En no Gyoja, the 9th-century founder of Shugendo, a faith that uses physical challenge and exertion to reach the divine. Sakuramotobo temple is dedicated to En no Gyoja, making it an important place for Shugendo practitioners. Kinpusen-ji temple, an important Shugendo Temple, is often busy with adherents in the summer who prepare to embark on the pilgrimage. Leading from Yoshino south to Koyasan is the Omine Okugake Trail, a pilgrimage route suitable for more advanced hikers. The route is used by practitioners of Shugendo for their training. Parts of the route remain prohibited to women. Tenkawa lies south of Yoshino

For those seeking remote hot springs resorts, both Dorogawa onsen and Totsukawa onsen offer hot springs bathing and traditional ryokan stays in rural settings.

Hyogo Prefecture

Hyogo prefecture lies to the West of Osaka and Kyoto prefectures, and east of Tottori and Okayama prefectures. It stretches from the Sea of Japan to the Seto Inland Sea and includes Awaji Island. The prefecture was formed from several previous historic areas of Japan – the ancient regions of Tajima, Harima, and Awajishima, and parts of the original regions of Tamba and Settsu.

Kobe is the capital of the prefecture and a bustling port town. In the west it is most closely associated with Kobe beef, a regional form of wagyu beef that has a reputation for being highly marbled, having come from coddled cows, and having a delicious mouth-watering flavour. There is more to the city than beef, however. Kobe is one of Japan’s largest cities and has an active waterfront at the Eastern edge of the Seto inland sea, and is a key port for imports and exports. The port is not just a place of commercial and industrial activity. In more recent years, the port has seen the growth of an extensive set of entertainments/ The landmark most associated is the Kobe Port Tower, a 103-meter vermilion structure that is illuminated at night. The Tower sits in Meriken Park, where you’ll also find a supersized Ferris wheel, the Kobe Maritime Museum, and a memorial to those lost in 1995’s Great Hanshin Earthquake, which devastated the city and surroundings. The Kobe Harborland area also includes shopping and hotels for those seeking a getaway or oceanview wedding.

As a port city and one of the earlier cities to open up to the world, the city shows those influences from the outside world. Nankinmachi is one of Japan’s largest ‘Chinatowns’. It is a lively bustling area with a large array of temples, dining options, and shopping options serving the Chinese community, locals, and tourists alike. It’s also one of Japan’s oldest Chinatowns, with arrivals from the 1860s. A community of European and American arrivals came together in the Kitano Ijinkan, the foreign settlement district. The remaining buildings are a small microcosm of Europe as traders and diplomats brought the styles of their home countries with them in architecture, and the area was home to Japan’s first mosque and synagogue. The businesses and commercial concerns and embassies where they worked were located in the Kyu-Kyoryuchi district. Today many of these buildings have been repurposed, but many of the residences in the Kitano Ijinkan can be visited and viewed internally. Some have become cafes or shops.

The Kitano Ijikan district sits on the side of the Rokko mountains that sit above the city and there are great views over the ocean from the higher sections of the district. Just a short distance away is the Shin-Kobe Ropeway that ascends to an observation point on the Southern edge of the Rokko mountain range. The observatory is popular with couples who come to view the twinkling lights of the city below and the panoramic views Nearby is the Nunobiki Herb Garden and the Nunobiki waterfall, all accessible with a moderate hike up from Shin Kobe station or down from the observatory.

Mt. Rokko, lying further east between Kobe and Osaka, is the mountain that gives the Rokko range its name and is the highest peak at just over 930m. The mountain is very popular with hikers seeking an escape from the city. There are some smaller attractions around the upper station of the Rokko Cable Car. From here, visitors can connect by bus to the Rokko Arima Cablecar that travels to the hot springs town of Arima Onsen.

Arima Onsen is one of Japan’s oldest hot springs, with references to the hot springs dating back to the 7th century when Emperor Jomei was said to have bathed here. Initially, the onsen was the preserve of emperors and monks until the Edo period when the town of Arima was built in the area. The Onsen has both ‘gold’ and ‘silver’ waters, colored by the different minerals and elements contained in them, that are said to be beneficial for multiple ailments. What can’t be denied is the joy of soaking in the warm waters. The onsen is unique in that it is not located near a volcano – the source of the kinsen hot spring waters is 60 km under the earth. A more recent excavation discovered 6 other sources of hot spring waters nearby, the ‘silver’ waters. The location of the onsen makes it very popular for visitors from Kansai.

The Nada area of Kobe, lying East of central Kobe, is known throughout Japan for its production of sake. Clean mountain water brought sake brewers to the area over the centuries. Those with an interest in sake will find the area well worth a visit. Many of the breweries will accept visitors, some have displays and exhibits on the production of sake, and a few offer tours of the facility. Any enthusiast should be prepared to make a few select purchases to sample the many types of sake produced here.

South of Kobe, in the Seto Inland Sea, is Awajishima, an Island that acts as a gateway to the Tokushima area of Shikoku. The island sits across the Akashi Strait from Honshu and across the Naruto strait from Shikoku. The island is connected to Kobe by the 3.5 km Akashi Kaikyo Bridge, the world’s longest suspension bridge. The island has no rail connections. Access to and from the island is by road or by sea. The Naruto Straits are known for the natural whirlpools that form with the changing tides.

Awajishima is said to be the first of Japan’s islands to emerge in Japan’s creation myth and home to some of the earliest settlements in Japan. Izanagi Shrine is dedicated to the founding deities. The location of that first bit of land in the Awajishima area is disputed by locals and is said by some to be and locals dispute whether Okonorijima Shrine, Eshima, or Nushima can stake a claim as the island created by the deities.

In modern times, the island was the epicenter of the devastating Great Hanshin Earthquake of 1995. The island is the home of a 500-year tradition in puppetry, Awaji Ningyo Joruri. Awajishima contains architectural sites designed by the famed Tadao Ando, including Yumebutai, and Honpuku-ji Temple. The largest city on the island is Sumoto, in the southeast. The eastern side of the island is home to its best beaches, but Goshiki beach on the west side of the island is known for its many-coloured pebbles. Sumoto castle has been recently restored.

The island is also known for being provisioners to the Imperial Family for many centuries. Kobe and Matsuzaka beef is said to have its origins in the cattle of Awajishima, and beef remains a local specialty of the region. The area is also known for its onions. Fish and seafood also feature prominently on an island dotted with small fishing communities along its coastline.

West of the Kobe area lies Himeji, home to one of Japan’s largest and most impressive original castles. Himeji Castle is often referred to as the egret or heron castle, due to its elegant lines and white walls. The UNESCO World Heritage castle is over 400 years old and stands in the center of the city. The entire castle complex consists of 80 buildings, but the large 6-story keep stands prominently above them all. Originally built in 1609, it is one of the few castles to weather the changing times. Sitting below the castle are the Kokoen gardens, built where samurai residences once stood and laid out in Edo period style.

Many visitors come just for the castle, but a longer stay makes it possible to enjoy a half-day at the Engyo-ji temple on Mount Shosha. The complex of temple buildings extends over the face of the mountain and lies nestled in woodland, providing a quiet contemplative space. The temple featured in scenes in the movie the Last Samurai, but is well worth a visit for its own sake.

Further inland, and just to the west of Kyoto prefecture lies Tamba Sasayama. Tamba was the site of one of Japan’s six ancient kilns and has an 800-year-old pottery tradition. The Tachikui pottery area is home to several pottery producers in this simple old style. The Tamba area is largely rural and is well known for its production of chestnuts and black beans. This area was once a castle area as well. Only the original foundations remain of Sasayama Castle, and a recent reproduction brings the style of the original building to life. Elements of the old townscape and the grounds of the formerly powerful Aoyama clan remain. Hiking at Mt. Mitake is a highlight for the adventure traveler.

North of Tamba, and further West, are the ruins of Takeda Castle. The ruins sit atop a 353m mountain, and often peek out above the cloud line and valley mist, giving it the name of the castle in the clouds. The phenomenon of seeing the castle floating above the clouds takes place most often in the early morning hours in October and November. Originally built in 1441, the castle was taken by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and was already in ruin by the start of the Edo period.

In the far north of Hyogo prefecture, just inland from the Sea of Japan lies Kinosaki Onsen. The hot springs were discovered 1300 years ago, in 720. It is said that an itinerant healer monk, Douchi, received a divine message to pray for 1000 days in the area, and at the end of those three long years of prayer, the hot spring burst forth. Today the resort is popular with bathers from the Kansai area and beyond. It is also one of the hot springs areas that allow bathers with tattoos. This hot springs resort town stretches along a long stream lined with weeping willows and crossed by stone bridges. Set back on both sides of the river are hot-springs inns, shops, and restaurants targeting those that seek to get away from it all and enjoy some recreational bathing. There are 7 public hot springs in the town and staying at one accommodation will entitle you entry not only to that inn’s hot springs baths, but typically your stay will include a pass that offers your entry to all 7 public onsens. Kinosaki Onsen is especially popular from November to early March when snow crab is landed just off the coast. This specialty is served in various preparations at the inns in the town. From Kinosaki Onsen, it is easy to travel along the San-in Coast westward into the San-in Kaigan National Park to Takeno beach, or south to the castle town of Izushi, where old streets remain in the castle district. Toyooka is home to a sanctuary for Oriental White Storks, and the sanctuary was successful in bringing back this local species.

Mie Prefecture

Mie prefecture sits south of Shiga prefecture in the Eastern Kansai area and is bordered to the east by Aichi prefecture and Ise Bay, and to the West by Nara prefecture. A third of the land area of the prefecture belongs to National Parks and 65% of the land area of the prefecture is forested. With over 1000 km of coastline, Mie prefecture is also very heavily influenced by the sea. Traditionally, Mie has served as a crossroads between Eastern and Western Japan and is a focal point of pilgrimage for those coming to Ise Shrine from all over Japan.

In the north of Mie prefecture, not far from Nagoya in neighbouring Aichi prefecture, there are the modern-day entertainments of Nagashima Resort – a sprawling area that includes hot springs, outlet shopping, a water park, the Anpanman museum dedicated to this manga character, and an amusement park known for its roller coasters. In nearby Suzuka is the Suzuka circuit, an F-1 auto racing circuit. Alongside the racetrack are go-kart courses to keep all in the family entertained. Heading further west inland to Sekijuku brings you to one of the preserved post towns of the Tokaido route or sea route between Tokyo and Kyoto associated with the samurai and the era of Shoguns. Walking the streets today feels like slipping back in time to the Edo area as many preserved wooden buildings of that time remain.

Tsu is the capital of Mie Prefecture. Nearby is Sakakibara, one of the best-known hot springs areas of Japan, which has been famous for its waters for 1000 years. It was featured in Sei Shonagon’s Pillow Book, written in the 10th century, as ‘Nanakuri no yu’. Now part of the capital city of Tsu, the onsen is a more modern resort that still attracts bathers. Tsu also has castle ruins and a restored keep at the castle that was once held by Oda Nobunaga’s younger brother, Nobukane, who held the castle to assist his brother in achieving control over Mie. Kitabatake gardens date back to the 1400s and are one of the few remaining legacies of the Kitabatake clan, a powerful local family that Oda Nobunaga’s son was married into, and which was later massacred. The garden is a strolling garden with beautiful views and a sense of tranquility. Takada Honzen Senjyuji is the head of the Shinshu sect of Buddhism. Located in Tsu city, the temple has buildings that have been designated important cultural properties as well as two designated as National Treasures. It is also known for the many types of lotus found here.

Matsusaka, a former castle town, is now known throughout Japan for its wagyu beef. Matsusaka beef is highly prized in Japan and is one of many kinds of Wagyu. It’s known for its marbling. All that remains of the castle are its earthworks, but the Gojoba Yashiki, where the castle guards lived, still stands.

Iga Ueno lies inland in northwestern Mie prefecture. The area has two main claims to fame – its association with ninja, who trained in the secreted valleys and forests of the area, and it is also the birthplace of famed Japanese poet Matsuo Basho.

One of the main schools of ninjutsu was based in this area. The Ninja Museum of Igaryu introduces visitors to the ninjas of feudal Japan and their techniques of stealth and surprise, as well as their defensive measures.

Other popular sights in town include the white-walled Iga Ueno castle, and the Danjiri Museum, which houses festival floats for the town’s popular Danjiri festival. The castle was built in the 1500s and is called the Phoenix Castle. Its 30 m high walls were amongst the highest of castles in Japan.

Near the Nara border and the Soni Highlands, the Akame 48 waterfalls offer scenic gentle hiking along a three-hour route from waterfall to waterfall. It’s also possible to learn about the giant Japanese salamander at a center here in the area. For the young at heart that wish to try out their ninja skills, the Ninja Training School offers family-friendly entertainment and obstacle courses.

Far more traditional facets of Japan are found at Ise Jingu, or shrine, which is one of the most sacred places in Shinto. The Japanese people have worshipped and revered the kami or spirits here for 2000 years. The shrine sits in a primeval forest in two main locations, the inner and outer shrines, known colloquially as Naiku and Geku shrines respectively, but in total there are 125 shrines scattered throughout Ise. It is well worth devoting a full day to discovering the shrines and surrounding shrine precinct.

The ‘outer’ shrine, known as Geku, enshrines Toyouke-no-Omikami, a kami or goddess associated with the essentials of physical life – food and grain, housing, and clothing. At both the inner and the outer shrines, as is common in Shinto, offerings of food are made to the kami. Near the outer shrine is the Sengukan museum that explains the elaborate procedures around the renewal of the shrine. As is common in Shinto shrines, a torii denotes the division between the secular and spiritual worlds, and the pathways into the shrine area are covered in gravel, to remind with the rustle underfoot that you are in a sacred space. Here the torii are natural wood, and the paths are lined by towering trees. At the entrance also stands a chozuya, also known as a temizuya, a large long fountain or washing station with water and scoops for visitors to cleanse their hands and mouths (their words and deeds) before they meet the kami. The shrine sanctuary remains largely hidden to visitors, standing behind an outer wooden enclosure. You’ll see visitors walking along the sides of pathways rather than down the centre, which is reserved for the kami.

The shrine illustrates the principles of constant renewal and purification found in Shinto, and since the 7th century, has been rebuilt in its entirety every 20 years. The cypress wood that is used to build the shrines comes from the Kiso Valley. At both shrines, the grounds are considered so sacred that only the high priests are allowed into the actual shrine area itself, and those praying must do so from the gates outside. Access to the shrines was only opened to the general public from the 17th century. Even today, being allowed to pray inside the main gate to the shrine is a distinct honor and special occasion that requires visitors to be appropriately dressed to meet the kami.

The ‘inner’ shrine of Ise Jingu enshrines Amaterasu omikami, the sun goddess, considered to be the most important of the kami as it is she and her consort who brought forth the land of Japan. This shrine is known colloquially as Naiku, but its formal name is Kotai Jingu. Historically, the Japanese Imperial family was considered to be descended from the kami, and the main priest of the shrine is the Emperor himself. The name for the shrine – Jingu – is different from the more commonly used Jinja. A ‘Jingu’ shrine is associated with the Imperial family. At the Naiku shrine, followers of Shinto offer prayers to the kami not for themselves, but for the safety and prosperity of the nation and the emperor. The shrine is also said to house one of the three sacred treasures of Japan, an ancient mirror, though it can not be viewed by the public. Here, entry to this sacred shrine space is market not just by torii, but by the Uji bridge. Here in addition to a chozuya, visitors can purify themselves in the sacred river flowing opposite the main sanctuary.

Outside the inner shrine, you’ll find Oharaimachi, the traditional kilometer-long approach, and Okage Yokocho. Within this area and along the approach, you’ll find all the services necessary to meet the more earthly needs of pilgrims – food, crafts, and souvenirs of local goods. Some must-try items are Ise Udon, noodles served in a thick sauce, and akafukumochi, a traditional Japanese sweet made with sweet bean paste and soft pounded rice cake. Okage Yokocho can be found around halfway along the Oharaimachi and replicates a historic town. For a peek into imperial life, it is now possible to visit the Hinjitsukan, which was home to the Imperial family when visiting the Ise area. The building reflects the status of its guests with its elevated design and was built in the late 19th century in Momoyama style.

If traveling from Ise to Toba, the Meoto Iwa, or ‘married rocks’ out at sea joined together by a shimenawa – a sacred straw rope. The rocks are said to be the representation of Izanagi and Izanami, the creator gods of the Japanese islands and the kami found throughout them. They are one of the UNESCO World Heritage sites of the area. Don’t be put off by the tourist-focused center that has sprung up at the access point to the shore to see the Meoto Iwa. You’ll pass through the Rygen shrine, before reaching the beach where you’ll be able to see the rocks. If you have a love of all things frog, then you may wish to also make a stop at Futami Okitama shrine, where you’ll find many representations of them as they are considered to be messengers of the spirit Sarutahiko.

Ama divers practice their profession on the Shima Peninsula, on the islands in Toba bay, and in and near Osatsu and along Ago Bay, Traditionally they would free dive for pearls and seafood. The Mikimoto Pearl Museum in Toba outlines the process of creating cultured pearls. Mikimoto Kokichi was famous for being the first to successfully cultivate pearls in the 1800s. Periodic shows demonstrate how Ama divers retrieve and place oysters, and a neighbouring shop sells pearls and goods made with pearls. The communities of Ama divers that still dive today for seafood can be found in fishing villages along the peninsula and at Toshijima, an island in Toba bay. One of the quintessential experiences of Mie and the Toba area is to visit an Amagoya or Divers’ hut and enjoy grilled seafood freshly harvested by the Ama diver. It is a profession that is slowly dying out as few young women follow in the footsteps of their mothers and grandmothers.

Along the eastern coast of the Kii Peninsula, the 1200-year-old Iseji pilgrimage route travels between Ise Shrine and the shrines of pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo. From start to finish, the Iseji extends 170 km, making the route a long two-week hike for those who wish a linear end-to-end walk, but it is possible to walk highlights of the route by combining train journeys between locations. The area is a very storied route, and along the way, you can learn more about the well-respected and local heroes, as well as the pilgrims that traveled the route. Hana no Iwaya shrine lies a short walk from Kumanoshi station and is an old shrine centered around a 45m high rock. The Nihon Shoki – Japan’s ancient historic chronicle, mentions the shrine. There is no shrine building – the focus of prayer is the rock itself. It lies not far from the longest beach in Japan, Shichiri Mihama beach, which is known for its population of sea turtles.

Just beyond Kumano-shi or Kumano town, the Iseji forks into two paths – one travels along the coast to Grand Hayatama Taisha in Shingu. The other route passes the Tori Toge to reach the captivating stepped rice terraces of Maruyama Senmaida and ends at Grand Hongu Shrine of the Kumano Kodo. Inland, the scenery is dramatic, and the experience of sailing along the steep cliff walls of the Dorokyo Gorge is heightened by experiencing the gorge by jet boat.

Wakayama Prefecture

Wakayama prefecture consists of land on the western and southern edge of the Kii Peninsula, bordering on the Seto Inland sea. To the north of Wakayama lies Osaka prefecture, and to the northeast and east like Nara and Mie prefectures. The climate in Wakayama is milder than inland parts of Japan, with the warm Kuroshio current flowing along the peninsula. The mountainous inland area of the prefecture rarely sees snow. The prefecture has a long and rich history, yet remains rural and sparsely populated once leaving behind the prefectural capital of Wakayama.

One of the best-known sights of Wakayama is Koyasan. This mountaintop monastery complex dates back to 816 when it was founded by the monk Kukai, known after his death as Kobo Daishi, who also founded the Shingon school of Buddhism, headquartered here. At its peak, there were 200 temples here. Now, 100 remain. Of these, 50 offer overnight stays in pilgrims lodgings – shukubo. A stay in one of the temples offers a unique opportunity to get a look behind the scenes at a Buddhist temple. While staying, you dine on shojin-ryori – Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, enjoy a bath in the communal facilities, spend a quiet night of reflection in the temple, and sleep on futon bedding on tatami mat floored rooms which are often simple and befitting of pilgrims. On rising in the morning, guests are expected to join the temple’s prayer service. Depending on the temple, this service may include the offering of incense and chanting of sutras, or it may involve a more elaborate fire ceremony. Whatever form the temple experience takes, it opens up a world that many have never seen.

Those who arrive the traditional way of the pilgrim, on foot after hiking 7 hours along the Choishi Michi, arrive at the Daimon, or the main gate. Those who arrive by modern convenience – train, funicular, and bus, arrive in the heart of Koyasan – quite possible at Okunoin, one of the most important sites at Koyasan. En route to Okunoin, the bus stops at Nyoindo, which used to be the furthest point that women could enter the complex. From here, the women’s pilgrimage route travels around the monastery complex but not within as this was a territory that was the preserve of male monks. This route also passes the Tokugawa Mausoleum. Shrines dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu and the Tokugawa family can be found throughout Japan – this one, built in the 1600s.

Okunoin is the largest cemetery in Japan, but it is well known for more than just its size. Okunoin Temple is the burial site of Kobo Daishi. The faithful say that Kobo Dashi rests in eternal repose and is not dead. Daily, monks leave offerings of food for Kobo Daishi. Adherents to Shingon Buddhism across the century chose to be buried as close as possible to Kobo Daishi, leading to the growth of the cemetery into a massive complex. As a result, the cemetery has rows and rows of ancient moss-covered grave markers in the older sections of the cemetery. Newer portions of the cemetery include more modern grave markers that hint at the previous occupation or industry of those memorialized and thus take on interesting shapes ranging from rocket ships to cars, to coffee cups. Within Okunoin, the Gobyodashi bridge divides the rest of the ceremony from the area where Kobo Daishi waits. The Torodo, or hall of lamps, is where prayers are offered to Kobo Daishi, and the lanterns within – over 10,000 – are perpetually lit. A walk through the cemetery at dawn or twilight when lanterns are lit along the main pathway gives the cemetery an otherworldly feel.

Kongobuji Temple is the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism, and technically, all the temples at Koyasan are sub-temples of Kongobuji. The buildings of Kongobuji are primarily closed to the public and were initially built in 1593 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The center of Shingon Buddhism moved from Danjo Garan to the current main temple building at Kongobuji. The temple precinct may be entered and it is possible to view some of the exquisite rooms in the building where the work of worship takes place. Danjo Garan forms the traditional heart of Koyasan. It is said that Kobo Daishi threw a staff from China and it landed here in the trunk of a pine tree and this tree is still there today. There are f halls, pagoda, and bell towers in the district, some dating back to the 1100s. The Kondo or main hall was the first built, although today’s building was built in the 1930s following a damaging fire. The Konpon Daito Pagoda, a 2 stepped pagoda, was built in the 800s and has a three-dimensional mandala said to represent the universe. Most mandalas take a two-dimensional paper form, but this uses the pillars of the pagoda to create a three-dimensional arrangement. While these are the two most prominent buildings of the complex and those that can be visited internally, each of the buildings, pagoda, and structures in the area are replete with meaning and important artworks. Some of these can be seen in the Koyasan Reihoku Museum. To see all the important sights of Koyasan, and to enjoy some of the hiking and pilgrimage paths of the area, you may wish to stay for two nights, but even a stay of a single night at Koyasan offers unique insights and experiences.

Wakayama City is the prefectural capital and a transportation hub, with both JR and Kintetsu stations, though it is far from a bustling metropolis. The City lies on the ocean, and white sand beaches await at the coast and are popular in the summer months. The city has a castle, originally built in 1585 and now mostly restored. The Nishi no Maru Garden forms part of the castle grounds and is known for its autumn foliage. For more modern culture, the Museum of Modern art includes Western and Japanese artists. Traveling by bus to Marina City, on the edges of the town, brings you to Kuroshio Market – where there are displays of tuna carving and a wealth of freshly caught fish for sale. There is an area where some seafood can be cooked and enjoyed on site. Next door states the somewhat incongruous Porto Europe- a mini European theme park with shops and entertainment.

Traveling further down the coast brings you to Yuasa, where soy sauce was first brewed and used as a condiment. The town has an Edo period townscape with preserved buildings where you can also learn more about soy sauce. The Arida and Hidaka areas are known for their orchards of oranges and ume or Japanese plums, used to make umeboshi or the pickled plums that feature on breakfast tables. The rice terraces of Aridagawa, with their unusual shape in the bend of the river, are a photographer’s dream when the rice is young and green. Kuroe, a town more inland from Wakayama city is a centre for lacquerware production.

The Kumano Kodo is a thousand-plus-year-old pilgrimage route that stretches across the Kii Peninsula, encompassing parts of both Wakayama and Mie prefectures. The Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes focus on three Grand Shrines of pilgrimage – the Hongu Grand Shrine, Hayatama Grand Shrine, and Nachi Grand Shrine. Collectively, these three shrines are known as Kumano sanzan. These shrines predate the pilgrimage itself and are mentioned in the founding myths of Japan. In this mythology, the land is known as the space where the kami live, and the gateway to the afterworld. Subsidiary shrines called Oji are also found along the pathway between the main Grand shrines. The area is also one of the centres in Japan of Shugendo, an ascetic faith combining aspects of Buddhism, Shinto, and other spiritual traditions. Faith is expressed through physical challenge. The mountains of the Kii Peninsula are strongly influenced by Shugendo.

The pilgrimage route and its associated sites are one of just two UNESCO World Heritage recognized pilgrimage routes – the other being the Camino de Santiago. Walkers who complete both will be able to seek their ‘dual pilgrim’ status. There is a range of routes that form the Kumano Kodo – the classic inland mountainous route, the Nakahechi, travels from West to East across the peninsula, beginning in Takijiri, and ending at Nachi Taisha or Nachi Grand Shrine Other routes include the Kohechi, which travels between Koyasan and Hongu Grand Shrine and is best for experienced hiking enthusiasts. The Ohechi travels along the coastline of the Kii Peninsula and is now mostly replaced by roads. The Iseji travels between Ise Shrine and the three shrines of Kumano, the Kumano sanzan. Many portions of the Iseji are now road and town, and a few forested trails remain. The Kiiji was the route from Kyoto to Tanabe and while it is not one of the UNESCO designated portions of the route, it forms part of the pilgrimage. Two further routes – the Choishimichi at Koyasan, and the Omine Okugake from Yoshino to Hongu Grand Shrine are part of the broader Kumano Kodo pilgrimage paths, but are primarily followed only by Yamabushi – mountain ascetic priests that have are familiar with the dangerous ridgeline hiking. Some of the route is still prohibited to women, but even for men, there is little infrastructure to safely support hikers along the entire route without a skilled guide.

The Kumano Kodo was traveled initially in the Heian period, from 794 to 1185, and at this time, it was initially followed by retired Emperors to pray for the well-being of the people and the land. The journey on foot from Kyoto took 30-40 days. During the Heian period, the popularity of the pilgrimage spread to samurai and grew to such a level that it was called, ‘the march of the ants’. ‘Now the route is walked by all – and fewer retired Emperors walk the trail but the paths are still walked by ascetic priests, believers, to common people seeking time in nature or some form of renewal. The Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route was open to all – regardless of class, and regardless of sex. While the pilgrimage route calls to believers, it is not strictly the reserve of pilgrims. The pilgrimage route is also followed today by many who enjoy great linear multi-day hiking. The trails between the shrines offer beautiful hiking amidst cedars, traveling from shrine to shrine, and are ideal for those seeking a deep connection with the traditions of rural Japan. Even those who wish to walk a more limited section of the trail leave the area touched by the experience. The residents of the area are welcoming to pilgrims of faith and adventurers alike. The area is also well known for its good, and delicious dishes that draw from mountains and sea. Historic onsens, such as Ryujin Onsen, Yunomine Onsen, Kawayu Onsen, the onsen at Kii Katsuura offer fantastic bathing.

The Kii Tanabe station provides rail access to the Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodo. Tokei Shrine in Kii Tanabe was established in 419 and was traditionally a location where pilgrims centuries ago would pray for the favor of the spirits in completing the pilgrimage safely. Tanabe was also the birthplace of the legendary warrior Benkei and stories of his exploits form the plots of several kabuki plays. The founder of the Aikido school of martial arts also hailed from Tanabe, and he is buried here. The Ajikoji area near the station is home to scores of small izakaya and restaurants.

The Trailhead for the Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodo begins at Takijiri, in Tanabe. Takijiri-oji marks the entrance not only to the trail, but also the entrance to both the land of the spirits and the land of the dead. The journey from Takijiri to the Grand Shrine at Hongu is a 30km route, passing Oji along the way and traveling through Takahara, Chikatsuyu, and Nonaka. Takahara Kumano Jinja is one of the oldest shrine buildings along the Kumano Kodo.

The Hongu Grand Shrine is one of the three shrines of pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo, and in addition to enshrining its own deity, it also enshrines those of the other two shrines of pilgrimage Hayatama Grand Shrine and Nachi Grand Shrine. Originally the shrine was located in a lower position which is today marked by a huge torii gate at Oyunohara, the tallest in Japan. The shrine was moved to its current location in 1889 due to persistent flooding. The Shrine is the head shrine to over 3000 Kumano shrines nationwide. The shrine buildings are constructed of natural wood. The emblem of the shrine is a three-legged crow, who was said to have appeared to the first Emperor – Emperor Jimmu, and led him to Nara where he established the seat of his rule.

The Hayatama Grand Shrine is another of the three shrines of pilgrimage. It lies along the Kumano river, and Emperors sometimes traveled on their pilgrimage by boat along the river to the shrine. Enshrined here are Hayatama no Ookami and Fusumi no Ookami, in addition to 12 further kami. A nagi tree, thought to be over 800 years old, grows on the grounds of the shrine and is also revered. The shrine was originally located at the site now occupied by Kamikuri Shrine. It is said that the Kumano deities came to earth at this location, setting foot on the physical plane from the spiritual at Gotobiki-iwa, the massive rock enshrined here. Unlike the Hongu Grand Shrine, the Hayatama Grand Shrine is painted in vermilion. The shrine’s Treasure Hall here includes a number of beautiful pieces and designated national treasures, and while the shrine buildings are later, there are signs of worship on the location that date back many centuries before.

Nachi Grand Shrine is reached by climbing an atmospheric stone-paved route of paths and stairs through the forest along the Daimonzaka. The route is lined by towering cedars thought to be 800 years old. Adding to the atmosphere are travelers who rent outfits that replicate the clothing of Heian-era pilgrims.

The grounds of Nachi Taisha are marked by substantial vermilion torii gates and the building is similarly painted vermilion. An 850-year-old camphor tree stands proudly on the grounds. Until the political decision in the 1800s to designate religious sites as either a Buddhist Temple or a Shinto Shrine, often the two faiths were practiced side by side, under the principles of Shinbutsu Shugo, and symbols and buildings of both faiths were often found at the same location. Nachi Grand Shrine, standing alongside Seiganto-ji Temple, illustrates the persistence of this along the Kumano Kodo. The three-story vermillion pagoda of Seiganto-ji has become one of the iconic views of Japan.

Viewed from the temple and Nachi shrine, is Nachi-no-taki, a waterfall with a breathtaking 133m drop. It is enshrined by the Hiro shrine at its base. The shrine is still used today by Yamabushi, mountain ascetic priests of Shugendo, in their training and worship.

The coastal areas of Wakayama prefecture and the southwestern and southern areas of the Kii Peninsula are popular getaway areas for residents from Osaka and Kyoto. Shirahama offers waterfront resorts and 600m of white sand beaches at Shirahama Ohama, and further beaches at Shirahama Chuo and Sotoura. The Shirahama area is also known for its onsen. Sakinoyu onsen has 1400 years of history. Off the coast of Shirahama lies Engetsuto Island, with a natural arch that allows you to peer through the island to see the setting sun. More modern attractions can be found inland at Adventure World – a zoo with pandas, safari park, aquarium, and amusement park. Further along the coast, the shoreline is given over to interesting rock formations such as the Hashigui rocks, which reach up to the sky and are associated with a legend about Kobo Daishi. Along the Shirahama coast, the Senjojiki rock formations are long flat rocks along the shore with the appearance of 1000 tatami mats, giving the rocks their name. The Sandanbeki caves were once a hiding place for pirates. The cliffs make it inaccessible on foot, but an elevator has been installed to bring visitors to the cave where they can learn about the local pirates. Offshore from Kushimoto, the area is known for its diving with coral reefs and brightly coloured tropical fish.